Hello, hello my sweet readers! As promised, I’m back with more NYFW runway reviews. Pulling-off this coverage by myself is a lot of work (browsing pics, choosing them, editing them, putting the looks together, sketching, more editing, writing reviews, proofreading and so on), but it’s definitely worth it. In this FW edition, contrasts have been the main trend so far: the sweet versus the hard, the fabric mash-up, the print mix. Sheer is back, stronger than ever, and so are cut-outs. Florals are making their seasonal (and regular) comeback and jacquard will remain for Spring (thank you, Fashion God). The color trend? Surprisingly, sky blue (I kinda wanted this color around since Chanel released their Skyline nail polish). And please, for the love of God, stop saying that the harness trend is Fifty Shades of Grey inspired. Bondage has been around fro much longer than that and those collections were ready to be produced when that shitty mommy porn sadly became a sensation (sorry for the rant, I just had to put it out there).
Anyway, after what seemed like the longest introduction, here they are, the reviews of the day:
As I stated on my last post, Joseph Altuzarra is part of my NYFW favorite trio (along with Prabal Gurung and Alexander Wang). Known for his eclectic and beautiful prints (talk about his tropical parrots from S/S 2012 and the graphic horse jumpers from Fall), this season he didn’t disappoint in that department (or in any department whatsoever). His collection lacked the usual Spring feeling, but that’s what made it so special. The thing about Altuzarra, he manages to twist the trends and revamp them. For this collection, he gave fringes a whole new meaning and reinvented the gladiator sandal (that shoe is gonna be all over the editorial world this coming Spring, mark my words). His shapes and tailoring? Flawless. An that jacket-over-the-shoulders thing, we better start embracing it right now!
Last Spring it was the sorbet parade, this Fall the rocker chic vibe and now she gave us romance. One thing is clear, the Jill Stuart show never gets boring. The runway opened in black, black with a feminine vibe. As the show kept on going, the colors kept on changing but there was never brightness, all shades were mute (eggshell, blush, pastel peach and that aqua number). As for the shapes, everything was clean, everything was beautiful and everything screamed romance. Stuart’s elements included full skirts, straight trousers, sheer fabric, cropped tops (strong, strong trend), jacquard (designers can’t get enough of this fabric), lace and sequins.
The designer, for the evening part, had a clear 1920′s inspiration and a ballerina one with a twist. Her garments flattered the female form to perfection. As for the shoes, wide ankle straps were also present on her show. Overall, a pretty collection that didn’t need the bright color factor to pop.
RAG & BONE
Rag & Bone has got it going on! Definitely one of the shows with more swag when it comes to NYFW. Over the years, David Neville and Marcus Wainwright have mastered the art of layering and on their Spring 2013 runway, it definitely showed. They gave their looks a chic spin on sporty, that’s what made their presentation so special and interesting. Bombers paired up with flirty, flare skirts, leather trousers and shorts with plunging neckline tops, skater dresses and denim, all were among the elements that were sent out the runway. As for the shoes, they gave platform sandals and wedges a whole new meaning, a beautiful one.
He has been dubbed as king of the accessories department and it’s clear why. Usually, I start by reviewing the clothes but shoes like this can’t be ignored. Like his fellow designer Altuzarra, Mr. Wang gave the gladiator a whole new spin, a minimal one. You can’t help but wonder how a couple of leather straps and a heel can shock so much (in a good way). There’s no explanation, this man just makes it work. Moving on to the clothes, it was all about the cut-out. Almost every look had them, almost every look rocked.
From barely there dresses with eternal slits to metallic tops, everything had that futuristic vibe with a sporty twist (Alexander Wang really knows how to handle the sporty trend). The thing no one expected? The lights went off, the dresses glowed. Now that’s what you call a killer finale.
Thank you, Peter Som! Than you for keeping my beloved pastels around for Spring 2013, thank you for giving them a new twist and thank you for throwing in some florals into the mix. Som has proved to the fashion world that when it comes to prints, he is among the masters. This time, it was flowers, but not your usual kind of flowers, they were all ethereal and abstract. For his 2013 Spring collection, he paired up soft knits with printed hotpants (I know what I’ll be wearing next season), he mixed beautiful Jacquard jackets with delicate jumpers. The floral appliqué garments were definitely the highlight of the show.
Board shorts gone cute? Oh yeah, Mr. Som definitely pulled that off (expect Zara to go crazy with this next season). After the pastel party, the show got some rusty coating: mustard, burnt orange and gold. Matching tops and bottoms has definitely become one of the strongest trends at the moment and one Som has embraced beautifully. As for the accessories, the pointed court with the ankle wrap is going to be huge next Spring (Jason Wu, Jill Stuart and Prabal Gurung also had them on their show), so start saving up!
LOOK OF THE DAY
A neutral color palette is always bound to be a great hit. I love neutral color-blocking but this time, I wanted to try a neutral mash-up. A lantern, python print skirt and a textured jumper with an embellishment may not seem like the perfect match but when put together, the result is unbelievably beautiful. Here’s what I used for this ensemble.
- Bobble jumper, ZARA
- Lantern python print skirt, ASOS
- Studded pumps, VALENTINO
- Chain clutch, CHLOE
- Snakeskin bracelet, ENDLESS
- Rhinestone bracelet, ACCESSORIZE
- Golden bangle, KATE SPADE
- Pearl bracelet, ENDLESS
- Pearl cluster ring, FOREVER 21
- Rouge Garçon nail polish, DIOR VERNIS
For all the details on today’s look, go to FASHIOLISTA
Ten reviews down, a ton more to go! Bring the fashion on! Are you enjoying the Spring 2013 collections? I know I’m in love with Altuzarra’s edgy take on the gladiator shoe. See ya next post!
Illustration: Ana Sofia Alanis
Image sources: style.com, asos, zara, Valentino, Chloe, Dior Vernis
All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (firstname.lastname@example.org) and images must link back to this site