NYFW is like a race among designers and like in every race, some finish first, some finish last. This year, the competition was tough: lots of great fashion, tons of innovation and genius and not that many misses. Some shows built a lot of expectation around them (we are talking about Galliano’s comeback for ODLR and first A. Wang show after being chosen as Balenciaga’s new Creative Director). Some others let the clothes and the spot on tailoring talk for themselves. Here is the first part of NY’s finest. From the 10th spot to the 6th.
It was one of the first shows or presentations in this NYFW edition and what wonderful way to start the week. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have been doing a great job a creative directors at Valentino this past seasons. With every collection, it becomes more certain, there is no one better than this duo to run the brand. The inspiration was obvious, Hansel & Gretel, folk fairy tales, craftsmanship at its best. Short hemlines, floral tiers, hand painted prints, bows, capes and embroideries were paired up with shoes that were cute as a button and delicate knee socks. It was a dream, a fairy tale dream.
I have always considered Joseph Altuzarra as part of NYFW’s Fantastic Four (he is up there with Prabal Gurung, Thakoon and Young Mr. Wang) and this season, he definitely proved why he is part of the cool group. It was a sexy enough fall for Mr. Altuzarra, one where leather, slits, sheer panels and big buttons had the leading roles. And even tough I’m a fake fur kinda gal, that white fluffy number did make a strong statement on the runway. The highlight? The architectural stitching details and the texture mix.
Not only is Oliver Theyskens the sexiest French designer on Earth (all-time sexiest will always be my Tom Ford), he is also the most talented. He doesn’t need big drama and theatrical presentations to do his thing. He knows shapes and tailoring and it shows. For this season, quilting got the Theyskens treatment and if this is quilting, I can’t wait to get quilted (yeah, I know, I used quilted three times in one sentence, I’m overexcited). His knee boots were cooler than the infamous Givenchy ones from last Fall and his trousers, well his trousers speak for themselves. Bravo, Oliver! You make simple complicated and vice versa, that’s why we love you!
Galliano and de la Renta together? When the news about this collaboration broke out, it seemed almost too good to be true. The picture perfect designer and the drama queen that is John Galliano? Yes, it happened and yes, the result was pure bliss. The shapes screamed Oscar, but the details screamed John. His influence on the runway was clear but not overpowering. The balance was great. And the hats? The hats was all Galliano, I can bet my life on that. It may be the start of something new between this two, it may have been just a way to re-introduce Galliano to the fashion world. Whatever it was, it worked!
I have a feeling he is about to take the “prodigy” crown from Alexander Wang and he deserves it. Prabal Gurung and his prints have made his show one of the most expected in NYC and he also just presented his collection for Target. The mood for his Fall 2013 show? He took his military inspiration and glammed it up. The show opener was a hit and just the beginning of what would be an extraordinary catwalk. Harnesses, endless slits, tailored coats, precise and meticulous details and the shoes, those multi-straps are gonna be all over next season. Expect to see one or two Hollywood youngsters with his dramatic gowns on the red carpet.
That’s it for today! Don’t forget to check back tomorrow to discover the top 5!
Image sources: Style.com
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