Milan’s runway line-up is noticeably smaller than the one in Paris, London or New York. The names are usually well-known, only a few new designers get to show their stuff (that’s something that should change) and choosing the best from all the rest is relatively easy. One thing about the city that I have loved and lived for four years is that it needs to open up to what’s new: new talents, new technologies, new shapes, new horizons. If Milan wants to stay current and interesting, they need to step up their game. Anyway, back to what concerns us today. I’ve chosen the five shows I liked the most. Let’s see if you agree with me.
This eccentric duo may not explore that much when it comes to shapes and silhouettes, what they are really good at is their beautiful craftsmanship. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have been paying homage to the Sicilian woman for as long as one can remember. For their Fall 2013 collection, it was all so lavish, rich and extravagant as it usually is. The inspiration was clear, royal and religious. They Italians recreated the mosaics found in the Byzantine cathedral of Monreale. Their decadent prints appeared on a series of shift dresses, mid-length skirts and tailored coats. They paired them up with lace garments, lace is one of their specialties. As for accessories, regal crowns, heavy and shiny chandelier earrings, and golden shoes, the kind of golden that’s definitely fit for a Queen.
Marni remains as one of Milan’s favorites (along with Bottega Veneta and Prada). Renzo Rosso recently acquired stakes from the Italian brand. For the Fall 2013 show, the setting was dark and simple, bare trees and a runway. It was different from what we are used to seeing from Consuelo Castiglioni, it was moodier, it was more somber, more minimal but equally fabulous. In Milan, fur has become the ultimate staple and Marni went with that flow (even if I personally support the use of faux). From the colorful stoles at the beginning to the full, furry coat at the nearly end, it was definitely the strongest trend on the runway. But not the only one: wool and tweed were all over the clothes, masculine and oversize silhouettes as well. Pleats and sheer inserts played a major role, one that made the collection a little softer, a little more feminine, a little more pretty.
It’s no a surprise that Bottega made it on to this list, Thomas Maier always knows what he is doing and that he is doing it right. For Fall 2013, it was retro, it was ladylike, seriously it doesn’t get more ladylike than that. Each and everyone of the creations oozed elegance, oozed confidence, oozed sexiness without having to do some skin-flashing. The color palette was dark: navy and black mixed up with a rich red and a pretty darn pretty mustard. The length was the same in every look: midi. The dress coat was the highlight of the show, so were the a-line skirts and the skirt suits. The beauty really made and statement that complemented Maier’s garments: big, wavy hairstyles, strong lips and even stronger brows.
Prada is always number one, the show-stealer, the had-turner. This year, Miuccia came in second. Not because her collection wasn’t good enough, but because someone else did better. It was darker than usual (no pink hot wheels, no red Asian comic flowers, no pretty bananas), but still pretty and still Prada-like. Following one of the season’s strongest trends, the off-shoulder, Signora Prada sent a bunch of tailored dresses and belted coats down the runway. Her prints and textures ranged from bold and wide vertical stripes, powder pretty, checkered tweeds and knitwear. The belt played a major role on the catwalk and as always, the footwear was a complete hit.
Massimilano Giornetti has done wonders with Salvatore Ferragamo, the Italian family should be proud and happy with the results. For this collection, the color palette was essential: black and navy with some hits of cream.
The tailoring, the construction, or better yet, deconstruction were spot on. The styling and layering were ven more beautiful, so was each garment separately: double-breasted pieces, cropped coats, turtlenecks, little dresses and more. The vibe and the atmosphere was sexy enough, so was the footwear. I’d love for my feet to freeze in those harness sandals next Winter!
That’s a wrap ladies and gentleman! We are done with Milan now moving on to Paris (I promise to finish the coverage before March ends).
Image sources: Style.com
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