Tag Archives: chalayan

PFW COVERAGE: Tropical Boho

Happy Sunday, my sweet readers! We are just three posts away from wrapping the whole Fashion Week Coverage, it’s taken me a while to achieve that due to some major hiccups (no wi-fi connection qualifies as major drama. I cried, I really cried my eyes out several times). Anyway, even if it’s been a month since PFW came to an end and reviews and pictures have been posted ages ago, I hope you still enjoy my reviews and the spin I put on them. Today I have some major Paris shark. To be honest, almost everyone on the French line-up qualifies as a big shot. Here they are: Nina Ricci’s sensual romance, Chalayan’s fresh avant-garde, Lanvin’s power lady and the woman of every hour, Isabel Marant. Let’s start!

NINA RICCI

Leave it to Peter Copping to sex things up, in the classiest and prettiest way possible. Nina Ricci’s shows are always beyond delightful. It has to do with the romance, with the need of inserting hints of lingerie in almost every look, with the delicate and flowy fabrics, but above all, with the elegant and ladylike vibe the designer injects into his collections. It’s dressy, it’s chic but there’s always that sensual air, the right amount of sexy. For Spring 2013. The color palette can be divided in two groups: Sexy black, dramatic red, deep navy and flirty pink for the first half. A perfect blush and the most beautiful, oyster for the second. Copping’s signature silks ans sheers were cleverly paired up with some elements of bondage (a surprising turn, but one that definitely worked): delicate harnesses and fishnet tops. The bondage trend is buzzing right now and no and part of it thanks to the 50 Shades of Shit phenomenon (as you probably have guessed, I have some major issues with those books and I refuse, really refuse to read them).

Meticulous and beautifully crafted cardigans and knits were paired up with fringed skirts, shiny, gathered ones and even a polka dot sarong (a genius move, if you ask me). Copping presented a different side of the Nina Ricci woman, always keeping her femininity and poise, he toughened and roughed her up a notch and he did it a wonderful job. The last dresses, the ones with the layers that seemed petals, were poetic, the makeup was dramatic, the shoes were barely there (that detail added more sensuality to it all). It was alluring, it was enticing, it was pure, Ricci perfection. Among my top 5 for Spring 2013? Hell yeah!

CHALAYAN

Many collections from Spring 2013 have had a Fall feeling to them. Thank God Husein Chalayan didn’t get that memo (or better yet, ignored it). The avant-garde designer presented a Spring worthy of Spring: soft colors, lively prints, fresh fabrics and Summery accessories. All the looks had two things in common: sharp tailoring and structured shapes. Both elements together may result in a too serious collection but this was definitely not the case. The volume and boxes just added more flair and fun to Chalayan’s line. His signature, color panels and sheer were present, so were some major pleat and ruffle details.The Spring cocoon coat (a garment that Miuccia Prada loves so much) made its way on to the runway and so did the most interesting and colorful peplum (pictured far right). The accessories are worth mentioning:  slink-back booties! What’s not to love?

LANVIN

During his many years as the Creative Director for Lanvin, Alber Elbaz has worked hard on building a strong identity for the brand and the kind of woman he designs for. The Spring 2013 show opened with a series of black and sharply tailored numbers: tuxedo silhouettes, cut-out dresses with racy, thigh high slits and plunging necklines. The tuxedo, a constant trend in the fashion industry, was beautifully deconstructed by Elbaz. After the penguin extravaganza, the designer sent some serious party jumpsuits on the runway and his signature ruched, tight dresses. His creations were heavily embellished with crystals, which paired up with heavy accessories (Lanvin’s forte) resulted in lavish and opulent pieces (over-the-top for the “less is more” folks, but since we come from the country of “more is more”, hello disco jumpsuit).

After the serious tuxedos and the flashy ensembles, the show finale was all about jewel-toned, cocktail dresses. But they were not your usual ruffled, peplum-ed, shape-hugging Lanvin numbers. They were boxy and strangely shaped. Not really my cup of tea, nor my favorite part of the show. Moving on to the accessories, platforms with shimmery ankle straps, bomb-looking purses and a couple of statement necklace, always a must when it comes to Lanvin shows.

ROLAND MOURET

I have a thing for Roland Mouret lately, I just can’t help but be drawn to his collections. For his Spring 2013 show, he took us back to the 80’s. But it wasn’t the 80’s as we know them (Balmain had a more literal approach to this trend), he revisited them but made them his own. Colors were solid and basic and lines and shapes we sharp. Every garment was perfectly constructed: the blazers were on point, the trousers flattering to a woman’s silhouette and the skirts were sexy enough with asymmetrical splits. Folded tops accompanied Mouret’s gorgeous tapered pants and the leather ensemble? The star of the show.

ISABEL MARANT

She is faithful to her chic and nonchalant style. She knows her shapes, hems and silhouettes. Armed with this weapons, she manages to kill it every single time. The French designer has been on top of the PFW pyramid and show, after show, it’s clear why. For Spring 2013, Marant took her Parisian babe to a more tropical but always bohemian setting. The hemlines, as usual, were short enough. The trousers? A perfect fit. The mini shift dresses had prints and embellishment details.

Hawaiian prints with floral embroideries, paisley peplums and flowy tops with laces, bejeweled denim jackets and heavy detailed skirts were among the elements that were showcased on the runway. There were also ruffles, her signature low-rise pants (I won’t die without sporting a pair of her babies, even if I’m an 80 year old gal with a droopy bottom), leather accents and bejeweled pieces. The thing about her, not only does she manage to make everything effortlessly cool, she also makes her clothes fit like a pair of decadent gloves fit the hands.  For accessories, gladiator sandals, bejeweled ones and bangles, lots of them. It’s a boho trip to the beach for Miss Marant and we can’t thank her enough for that.

LOOK OF THE DAY

Fall and Winter don’t have to be all dark and somber. A bright coat is the ultimate staple this season, it can instantly add a fun twist to any ensemble. Why not pair it with pastels and neutrals for an eye-catching result. For accessories, more color and contrast to make it even more interesting.

For all the details on today’s look, go to Fashiolista

Only two more! I swear, we are almost done! Have a lovely Sunday,

 

Sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis
Image sources: style.com, Zara, My Theresa, ysl, Polyvore, River Island

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized

PFW COVERAGE: C’est fini

It’s been a long and fashionable month and I finally get to have some runway rest after this post. Probably you are in need of a break too. We close this season’s Sweet’n’Raw Fashion Week coverage happy with the results and with six of my favorite names from the Paris line-up: Hussein Chalayan, Balenciaga, Giambattista Valli, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and my favorite, Haider Ackermann.

CHALAYAN

Thank you Hussein for bringing your usual colorful pop to the season. For this show, the designer chose a vivid color palette that included bright red, teal, lime, black, mustard and taupe. He mixed his long and minimal gowns with oversize garments, structured shapes, and cut-outs, lots of them. He did his fair share of color-blocking by putting together beautiful combos such as teal-mustard-white or taupe with holographic panels. As always, his prints were as interesting as his garments and he definitely hit a high note by pairing the looks to equally colored pumps.

BALENCIAGA

Leave it to Balenciaga to make the ultimate PFW statement. This show is among the most coveted of the week, I always silently curse my paisana Salma Hayek, her marriage to Mr. Pinault has snagged her a front row seat next to Anna Wintour. Nicolas Ghésquiere is always one step ahead of all of us mortals, and with this collection, it shows. The designer sent out the runway a display of high-waisted trousers with metallic finish, structured and oversize coats, sheer garments with shiny leather inserts, printed sweatshirts and volume A-line skirts. The collection had an air of sporty to it but also some 80’s vibe. For the accessories (major role at the Balenciaga show), pumps with a strap overload, two-toned ankle booties and gloves, beautiful leather gloves.

CHANEL

Shall we address the fact that the Chanel set is always insultingly beautiful? The Grand Palais always dresses up with its best pieces when it comes to the brand’s show. This time it was all about crystals and it was dazzling. Now about the collection, to be honest, it wasn’t my cup of tea. Miranda Kerr and company strutted the stellar catwalk in oversize garments, pants over dresses or skirts, metallic and sheer textures and colorful tweed. Color palette was jewel toned, so were the eyebrows of every model that walked Karl’s runway. My favorite parts, the side strap pumps and the little boy.

HAIDER ACKERMANN

This is my PFW climax, I was expecting this show for ages and it didn’t disappoint me one bit. Over the seasons, ,my love for Haider Ackermann keeps growing and growing. He has developed a signature style that can be recognized from a plane. This show, like his past two,, was delightful. The designer payed special attention to the woman’s waist by cinching almost every look on the runway, his artistic layering skills were at its best and his effortless and precise tailoring was done to perfection. His color palette was all about rusty, Autumnal shades. What killed me? The cobalt blue, cropped jacket number.

YVES SAINT LAURENT

It was the final bow at YSL for the great Stefano Pilati and what a dark & sexy way to say bye, bye. With a runway filled with dark puckered amazons, the designer sent out the runways a bunch of looks in which the waist was the main element. Almost every ensemble from the collection was cinched, enhancing the woman’s natural hour-glass figure. Form structured and leathery outerwear to sheer and delicate sheer, midi dresses, it was beautiful all the way. The accessories went perfectly with the collection´s mood, ruched black boots, wide belts and wait for it… metallic pumps (I’m a sucker for shiny stuff). It was a beautiful end of an era and on to the next question: “Where are you going Stefano?” We already know that Mr. Slimane is taking over Pilati’s position and that makes us very, very happy.

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

A fabulous Italian in Paris, that’s how I like to think of Giambattista Valli. I’m a sucker for his romance and his beautiful silhouettes. This time his mixed up his signature femininity with some graphic and edgy prints. He pleated skirts with sheer inserts, he added peplums to knitwear, he did the “very popular this season” dress over trousers and for the end, he did a beautiful evening gown display (the long-sleeved, burgundy one took my breath away). It was a versatile collection, but it always stayed true to its creator’s style.

LOOK OF THE DAY

Last FW look and we had to do a little Parisian chic. I chose a green lace dress, that as soon as I saw it at ZARA, I fell for it. I made it jumper style by adding a red, striped button-down underneath, this one is from ASOS. To enhance the waist, a skinny belt in the same shade of green as the dress. This peacock snake one is from Malene Birger. For coverage, a chic tan biker, also from ASOS. For the legs, thigh-high socks in cream and tan booties (I have used them in previous looks) from ASOS, they are now on sale.

For the bag, I love the contrast between navy, green and tan. That’s why I went with Proenza Schouler‘s PS1 Large. For accessories, I kept it simple, a single deer ring from and ASOS beige & tortoiseshell watch. For the nail detail, Tom Ford‘s Scarlett Chinois polish.

For all the deets on today’s ensemble, go to FASHIOLISTA.

We officially close Fashion Month (even tough it ended a week ago) and we are very much looking forward to welcoming the new season, of course, Sweet’n’Raw style.

Wishing you a gorgeous weekend, sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofía Alanis
Photos: style.com

All texts are written by me, PLAGIARISM is not cool…

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized

PFW Coverage: Hey Hussein, pass me a glass of champagne!

Well hello my sweet readers! Ready for your fashion fix of the day? This time I’m gonna give you Paris, who doesn’t love Paris? And when it’s Paris and Fashion Week, it’s more than just the city of love. This is the first post of my series about PFW. And since the line-up is really, really long, let’s start with our first fab five from the city of lights!

BALENCIAGA S/S 2012

Definitely one of the most expected shows in PFW. Fashionistas all over the globe wait eagerly for the moment they get to see what the great Nicolas Ghesquiere will be showing on the runway. He never disappoints, seriously, he never seizes to amaze. Not even the crashing benches that left the front row standing did any harm, hey there’s no such thing as bad publicity. Plus, he did deserve a standing ovation. With the music from Twin Peaks playing, the show was stunning from the start. It was hard not to fall in love with every single one of the color-blocked looks.

First came the contrast between the oversized jackets with wide shoulders and those tiny but perfectly executed shorts, both in iridiscent materials. The collection was all about Ghesquiere’s take on futurism, and what a jaw-dropping take! He gave us high-waisted shorts, tailored jeans and trousers, printed blouses and lots of waist! In the end, a gorgeous and eye-catching cellophane skirt. It was all about construction, dramatic shapes and all the genius that is Mr. Ghesquiere.

BALMAIN S/S 2012

All eyes were on this one, on young Olivier Rousteing’s debut for the french house. Will he keep on with Decarnin’s legacy? Will he give it a twist? Will he change the brand completely? Will he return to the company’s roots? Many questions were asked, but in the end Rousteing stayed true to what he learned from his mentor, Christophe Decarnin, but he made it his. The collection had all the influences from the previous designer, but it also had the young designer’s twist. It was all so gold, so baroque, so rocker meets cowboy, meets chic, meets Vegas. Iza Goulart, Arizona Muse and Anja Rubik were among the amazons that walked the runway for Balmain this season.

The looks: high-waisted leather trousers and short shorts with a skin-tight fit, detailed mini skirts paired with simple, white tops, cropped jackets, studs and chains. Embellishments were everywhere, as expected. What killed us, those two floral looks you can see above, talk about some lust. In the end,  it all seemed so Balmain but so new at the same time. It was refreshing and I loved it, I hope you did too!

CARVEN S/S 2012

Oh Carven, I beg you to please come in at night and enter my closet and stay there for as long as I live. This is quickly becoming one of my favorite brands in the whole world. And even if the whole world thing sounds a bit childish, it’s true. There wasn’t a single piece form the collection that didn’t make me want to go out and rob the nearest bank. It was all so retro and all so cute, plus the prints and graphics were beyond beautiful (thank you Guillaume Henry).  It was all so wearable and fun. I’m in serious need of that mustard, leather dress you can see above.

Cut-out dresses, high-waisted shorts, flippy skirts and perfectly tailored jackets were among the garments the french designer presented on the runway. The inspiration was something like schoolgirl meets The Sound of Music. It was all in perfect sync. With a collection like this, who doesn’t want to be a Carven girl?

CELINE S/S 2012

Phoebe Philo knows what she does best and sticks to it, and so far it has been always a winning formula. She has mastered quite well the art of minimalism, and it shows. For this collection, the designer’s color palette was mainly white, black and emerald green, with a touch of burgundy and a vivid red. The shapes and cuts were executed to perfection, the tailoring itself deserved a standing ovation.

Volume trousers, mid skirts, some pleated, some in leather, some with movement, structured tops with peplums (that leather peplum one, score!), architectural garments and complicated but beautiful constructions. The waist, once again, enhanced by wide belts and it was all about playing with proportions. Another hit for the french house, we are so getting used to that.

CHALAYAN S/S 2012

You have to love a designer that loves to play a part, that loves to dress up. That’s the case of Hussein Chalayan. He had done it before and he did it again, this time dressed as a waiter and pouring champagne to his models. The collection was clean, perfectly executed and very innovative from my point of view. Three things very characteristic of him. It all started with neutrals, black, cream, white and beige in blazers and structured garments.

Little by little, the show seemed to grow in full bloom with Mr. Chalayan’s beautiful prints. Shift dresses, printed ones, others with panels. It was overall an interesting collection. More interesting is the character who designed it.

LOOK OF THE DAY

It’s all about the parisian chic! What’s more chic and romantic than lace! For this ensemble, I went for the cutest dress from TOPSHOP in tan. This little number from Jones and Jones drops from the waist into tiny pleats creating volume. To add more chic details, this tassel Gucci belt is the perfect accessory. For the bag, there’s nothing more classic and pretty than the Hermes Constance, also in tan.

Enough with the tan already! To take things more over the dramatic side, some burgundy platform pumps from Sergio Rossi.

For the jewelry, brace yourself for the most beautiful necklace my eyes have seen. It’s from MAWI and it gives the whole ensemble and unexpected twist with a gorgeous result. The green hues and the gold blend in perfectly with the dress and the other accessories. Some arm candy can never do any harm, so to keep on with the green vibe, the hermes Kelly Double Tour.

For beauty, an updo is definitely the way to go and matching the lips to the shoes makes it even more fun. This lipstick is “Sweet Cherry” by Laura Mercier, a master in the make up division!

As promised, this is the first post from Paris. One down, two to go (or maybe three, the shows to review are so many it’s hard to choose from the bunch). Anyway for more scoop, keep checking back. Read away, comment away and keep on visiting.

Sweet kisses…

PS: For all the details on today’s look, CLICK HERE

Photos: Style.com
Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis
All texts are written by me and plagiarism is NOT COOL

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized