Happy Sunday, my sweet readers! We are just three posts away from wrapping the whole Fashion Week Coverage, it’s taken me a while to achieve that due to some major hiccups (no wi-fi connection qualifies as major drama. I cried, I really cried my eyes out several times). Anyway, even if it’s been a month since PFW came to an end and reviews and pictures have been posted ages ago, I hope you still enjoy my reviews and the spin I put on them. Today I have some major Paris shark. To be honest, almost everyone on the French line-up qualifies as a big shot. Here they are: Nina Ricci’s sensual romance, Chalayan’s fresh avant-garde, Lanvin’s power lady and the woman of every hour, Isabel Marant. Let’s start!
Leave it to Peter Copping to sex things up, in the classiest and prettiest way possible. Nina Ricci’s shows are always beyond delightful. It has to do with the romance, with the need of inserting hints of lingerie in almost every look, with the delicate and flowy fabrics, but above all, with the elegant and ladylike vibe the designer injects into his collections. It’s dressy, it’s chic but there’s always that sensual air, the right amount of sexy. For Spring 2013. The color palette can be divided in two groups: Sexy black, dramatic red, deep navy and flirty pink for the first half. A perfect blush and the most beautiful, oyster for the second. Copping’s signature silks ans sheers were cleverly paired up with some elements of bondage (a surprising turn, but one that definitely worked): delicate harnesses and fishnet tops. The bondage trend is buzzing right now and no and part of it thanks to the 50 Shades of Shit phenomenon (as you probably have guessed, I have some major issues with those books and I refuse, really refuse to read them).
Meticulous and beautifully crafted cardigans and knits were paired up with fringed skirts, shiny, gathered ones and even a polka dot sarong (a genius move, if you ask me). Copping presented a different side of the Nina Ricci woman, always keeping her femininity and poise, he toughened and roughed her up a notch and he did it a wonderful job. The last dresses, the ones with the layers that seemed petals, were poetic, the makeup was dramatic, the shoes were barely there (that detail added more sensuality to it all). It was alluring, it was enticing, it was pure, Ricci perfection. Among my top 5 for Spring 2013? Hell yeah!
Many collections from Spring 2013 have had a Fall feeling to them. Thank God Husein Chalayan didn’t get that memo (or better yet, ignored it). The avant-garde designer presented a Spring worthy of Spring: soft colors, lively prints, fresh fabrics and Summery accessories. All the looks had two things in common: sharp tailoring and structured shapes. Both elements together may result in a too serious collection but this was definitely not the case. The volume and boxes just added more flair and fun to Chalayan’s line. His signature, color panels and sheer were present, so were some major pleat and ruffle details.The Spring cocoon coat (a garment that Miuccia Prada loves so much) made its way on to the runway and so did the most interesting and colorful peplum (pictured far right). The accessories are worth mentioning: slink-back booties! What’s not to love?
During his many years as the Creative Director for Lanvin, Alber Elbaz has worked hard on building a strong identity for the brand and the kind of woman he designs for. The Spring 2013 show opened with a series of black and sharply tailored numbers: tuxedo silhouettes, cut-out dresses with racy, thigh high slits and plunging necklines. The tuxedo, a constant trend in the fashion industry, was beautifully deconstructed by Elbaz. After the penguin extravaganza, the designer sent some serious party jumpsuits on the runway and his signature ruched, tight dresses. His creations were heavily embellished with crystals, which paired up with heavy accessories (Lanvin’s forte) resulted in lavish and opulent pieces (over-the-top for the “less is more” folks, but since we come from the country of “more is more”, hello disco jumpsuit).
After the serious tuxedos and the flashy ensembles, the show finale was all about jewel-toned, cocktail dresses. But they were not your usual ruffled, peplum-ed, shape-hugging Lanvin numbers. They were boxy and strangely shaped. Not really my cup of tea, nor my favorite part of the show. Moving on to the accessories, platforms with shimmery ankle straps, bomb-looking purses and a couple of statement necklace, always a must when it comes to Lanvin shows.
I have a thing for Roland Mouret lately, I just can’t help but be drawn to his collections. For his Spring 2013 show, he took us back to the 80’s. But it wasn’t the 80’s as we know them (Balmain had a more literal approach to this trend), he revisited them but made them his own. Colors were solid and basic and lines and shapes we sharp. Every garment was perfectly constructed: the blazers were on point, the trousers flattering to a woman’s silhouette and the skirts were sexy enough with asymmetrical splits. Folded tops accompanied Mouret’s gorgeous tapered pants and the leather ensemble? The star of the show.
She is faithful to her chic and nonchalant style. She knows her shapes, hems and silhouettes. Armed with this weapons, she manages to kill it every single time. The French designer has been on top of the PFW pyramid and show, after show, it’s clear why. For Spring 2013, Marant took her Parisian babe to a more tropical but always bohemian setting. The hemlines, as usual, were short enough. The trousers? A perfect fit. The mini shift dresses had prints and embellishment details.
Hawaiian prints with floral embroideries, paisley peplums and flowy tops with laces, bejeweled denim jackets and heavy detailed skirts were among the elements that were showcased on the runway. There were also ruffles, her signature low-rise pants (I won’t die without sporting a pair of her babies, even if I’m an 80 year old gal with a droopy bottom), leather accents and bejeweled pieces. The thing about her, not only does she manage to make everything effortlessly cool, she also makes her clothes fit like a pair of decadent gloves fit the hands. For accessories, gladiator sandals, bejeweled ones and bangles, lots of them. It’s a boho trip to the beach for Miss Marant and we can’t thank her enough for that.
LOOK OF THE DAY
Fall and Winter don’t have to be all dark and somber. A bright coat is the ultimate staple this season, it can instantly add a fun twist to any ensemble. Why not pair it with pastels and neutrals for an eye-catching result. For accessories, more color and contrast to make it even more interesting.
- Pink coat, J. Crew
- Nude jumper, Asos
- Tapered trousers, J. Crew
- Teal pumps, Gianvito Rossi
- Shoulder bag, Chloé
- Spike bracelet set, Asos
- Animal bangle, J. Crew
- Ring set, Topshop
- African Violet nail polish, Tom Ford
For all the details on today’s look, go to Fashiolista
Only two more! I swear, we are almost done! Have a lovely Sunday,
Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis
Image sources: style.com, Zara, My Theresa, ysl, Polyvore, River Island
All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (firstname.lastname@example.org) and images must link back to this site