Good Saturday my sweet, sweet readers! I saved some of the biggest names from PFW for last (bigger is not always better as you will see and read further ahead). After 14 really, really long posts, 54 runway reviews, thousands of photos and illustrations, hours of research and writing and two very tired butt cheeks (the hours I spent sitting down preparing this posts have given my ass more flatness than usual), I am D-O-N-E with my Fashion Week Coverage and I can proudly say I did it all by myself! Talk about multi-tasking baby! Anyway, this is my last from Paris (that is until February catches up with me and unleashes the FW mayhem all over again). So without futher ado, I bring to you The PFW Giants.
CHRISTIAN DIOR S/S 2012
You can feel it, I do too. Galliano’s absence is something that can be precieved miles away. For years we got used to his drama, his theatrical props, his unconventional genius and his style. We all know that Bill Gayten is for LVMH as the Pope John Paul I was for the catholic church, mere transition. And while the luxury group is holding off on naming the new Creative Director for the brand, Gayten has been doing what is expected from him: safe collections and no drama whatsoever. He went for fresh but always classic Dior shapes in a soft and subtle color palette (blush, cream, bright red and black among others).
It was all very femenine, very ladylike with dresses that dropped down from the waist, romantic lace and ruffles. It was a very delicate and sophisticated collection (also the sheer gave it an air of sexiness). And although it was all so risk-free and controlled, the tailoring and the cuts were perfect, the garments had beautiful movement and the clothes were wearable enough. Overall Bill Gayten did a a fine job, but enough already with the mystery, we all wanna know who’s next!
CHANEL S/S 2012
I am always the first one to praise Karl “The Kaiser” Lagerfeld, his multi-tasking abilities, his genius and talent, his creativity and the character he has created for himself. This time I have to be blunt about his S/S show, although the Grand Palais sea set he created for the show was overpowering and breathtaking, his collection (at least in my very own personal opinion) was not. Yes there were some interesting shapes, unconventional textures and materials but it wasn’t the clothes that got my attention, it was the beautiful scenery, those giant shells and corals scattered all over the venue and obviously the highlight of the show, Miss Florence Welch singing like a mermaid inside one of the clams, very Botticelli.
The styling and beauty was absolutely flawless, more so when you see the backstage photos and the close-ups on the models ready to walk the runway. The color palette was mainly composed of pastel colors. He showcased over 80 looks on the runway, some forgettable but also some spectacular ones. The tweed was present, also the lace and his very resourceful feathers. He also gave us new and unexpected materials and space-like ensembles. It was all very ladylike but with Karl’s own take on the sea. It was interesting, but not in my FW top collections (this is the part where Karl says, “who cares what you think, you bloody mortal”.)
ELIE SAAB S/S 2012
We all know what to expect from Mr. Elie Saab. Year after year he fills the runway with his glamour, elegance and jaw-dropping fabrics. He is a favorite among the red carpet regulars and it shows why. This year he started off with some neutrals, then the mustard and the soft orange to end with green and purple, no wonder he named the collection “Color Shock”. From beautiful cocktail dresses to lavish, long and flowy gowns, all perfectly exectuted and all with that natural movement that can only be achieved by a man with his sartorial skills.
There was lace, there were sequins, sheer and those leg slits that open up and finish up on strategically perfect places. He never lost his elegance but he played with some risque and daring necklines: plunging, peek-a-boo, see through, halter and even some greece inspired ones. The best part of the show: when the first green look came out the runway, the drooling started. When did it stop? When the show was over. Kudos to you Mr. Saab, for your craftmanship, for being always loyal to your signature style but never falling into a boring rut and in advance, for all those dresses made by you we will be seeing on the red carpet when the award season kicks off next year!
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER S/S 2012
We can’t say we didn’t love the props and the tricks the designer pulled of for his S/S 2012 show. The flashcards with the numbers, the non-models walking the runway covered with real ink tattoos, the tongues, the frowns and the funny faces from model stars like Karlie Kloss and Lindsay Wixson, the music replaced by narration, like it was done once upon a time in old couture shows. It wasn’t your usual uptight fashion show, it was fun, fun to watch for the guests, fun to walk for the models.
The clothes were all classic Jean Paul Gaultier, bustier tops all over, asymmetrical shapes, leather and bondage hints, lingerie and stockings. The beauty was exactly that, beautiful, Miss Kloss and Miss Swaenpoel looking more than fabulous and somewhat vintage with rolled up hair and dramatic makeup. It was all about the female figure, enhancing it, adorning it, embellishing it and Jean Paul Gaultier sure knows how to do the task.
LOUIS VUITTON S/S 2012
Let me start off by saying one thing, this was another show-stopper from the man of the hour himself, Mr. Marc Jacobs. He had already closed FWNY with a stellar collection for his namesake, now he did it again for Louis Vuitton. The setting and the venue were beautiful, seems like the french house wants to outdo Chanel when it comes to lavish and over-the-top runway sets (although Chanel did first a couple seasons ago the carousel thing). The color palette was like cotton candy, all so soft, so fun and so sugary. Pastel leather? Sign me up! It was a lace, feathers and Broderie Anglaise parade. I’m a sucker for the last one, which was in almost every look the american designer sent down the runway: coats, jackets, volume dresses, collars and more.
The beauty and styling was very princessy with high buns and shiny head pieces. The shoes? Worth taking your grandma over to the pawn shop to get a pair of those patent mules. It was all so young, so beautiful and beyond adorable. The finale: With Kate Moss as a closer you can never go wrong. The stunner walked the carousel in a beautiful white dress adorned with feathers, regal as the queen of fashion she is. Bravo Marc Jacobs, once again, BRAVO!
ALEXANDER McQUEEN S/S 2012
It’s undeniable that Sarah Burton had the best teacher she could ever have. The late fashion genius, Alexander McQueen gave her all his best couture secrets and tricks but more importantly made her understand his style and his ways to perfection. With Sarah Burton, McQueen’s legacy to the world has remained intact. Once again, the display of fashion and craftmanship was flawless. The excentricity and the shapes with which the british designer was best known for are always perfectly recreated but also reinvented by his pupil, Miss Burton. For the show, all the models had their faces covered with lace, it was almost like a bondage thing.
The detailed garments presented on the runway were beautifully executed, it was both femenine and obscure, but it had a fragile vibe to it. It was another ocean nature inspired collection, but it had a very different take on it than the others (Versace was very literal, and Chanel was very, well very Chanel). Embellished gowns, ruffles, beading, embroidery and lace were some of the elements that were incorporated for the collection. The result, that kind of beauty that gives you the chills. You learned from the best Sarah Burton, you really did.
LOOK OF THE DAY
The las FW look and the last leg flashing one for a long, long, time (as we speak my legs are enclosed in a pair of chocolate brown tights, SAD). We saved the glam for last. I have a new obsession, mixing sequins with leather. And that’s exactly what I did for this look. I chose a silver, clingy dress from ASHISH. It has the right amount of short to stun the whole world with your killer pins and the right amount of sequins to literally shine through. Since back then was a bit chilly, this nude leather jacket from J. CREW contrasts to perfection with the flashy dress. For the shoes, you gotta glam it up and twist it up! That’s why with Vionnet you will always get that. This suede and python heels by Giuseppe Zanotti for Vionnet are extraordinary, making the outfit pop out even more.
For the bag, we’ve added glam and shine, why not add some wild as well? This Marc by Marc Jacobs panther clutch is just what we were looking for. For the jewelry, we are going heavy with the arm candy. A bracelet foursome composed by two glitter belt bracelets in gold and silver from TOPSHOP, Chan Luu’s beaded black bracelet with skulls and a Marc by Marc Jacobs resin bangle. To finish off your glammed up hands, a ring trio by River Island and the very coveted Chanel Peridot nail polish.
For more deets on today’s look, head over to FASHIOLISTA! You can also follow me there!
Voila! Last post from S/S 2012. I hope you enjoyed reading this as much as I enjoyed working my ass off to get this ready. It’s a passion but it’s also a lot of work, one I am very happy to do and also one I hope to do someday while earning some serious cash! Check back for some new sections and surprises, also some sections will be making a big comeback. Halloween is just around the corner and since Sweet’n'Raw is all about dressing up, expect some spooky posts coming up in the next few days!
Wishing you a lovely weekend, sweet kisses…
Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis
All texts are written by me, PLAGIARISM is not cool…