Greetings from a less frozen Milan, Italy! As we began to warm-up for our Fashion Week, New York begins to wrap it up. It’s been a wonderful week so far (Proenza Schouler made my heart literally stop yesterday, but their review will be coming up tomorrow), Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren have yet to show their stuff on the runway. As for myself, I have five more reviews in store for you, my sweet and gorgeous readers. Ready for today’s round-up? I have Mr. Elegance, Oscar de la Renta, the showman, Marc Jacobs, and more! Let’s start!
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
It was a dream, a dream built by the man himself, Oscar de la Renta. It was a display of class, sophistication, femeninity but with a touch of fantasy. Who wouldn’t want to be turned into a de la Renta princess? I bet all of you raised your hands. It was all so old school, all so parisian chic and all so lavish. There was the Audrey Hepburn inspiration and then there were a gazillion jewels going down the runway (some real, some printed).
I have to admit I was hypnotized from look one, and kept on drooling till the final bow (I have a secret crush on Oscar). The Dominican designer mixed classic black looks with powdery colored ones. He sent out knits, lace, tulle, pleats, embellishments, and even colored fur, it was so overwhelmingly perfect! In the end, he had his usual red carpet moment with some dreamy and fabulous gowns, waiting to be Oscar’d. I loved his collection, I loved each and every one of his garments.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
Moving on to a lighter and more minimal runway, 3.1 Phillip Lim’s. For the working woman, for the sleek and cool city chick, that’s the type of crowd the designer went for this season. Tailored pants in different cuts, unusually shaped knitwear, fitted blazers and the turtleneck, which was pretty much everywhere.
He did his fair share of color-blocking and layering, in a clean and precise way. It was a great show, wearable clothes for the glam gal who likes workwear and trendy in the same phrase.
When the tailoring is right, you can never go wrong, that was Derek Lam’s motto for this collection. Cream, black, mustard and a little bit rusty red painted the designer’s runway. Each look resulted in odd pairings, in a good way. Printed bombers accompanied printed midi skirts, fur, leather and silk as a combo, long and flowy skirts with thick and heavy knits. And it all worked out so damn well. It was effortless, it was laid-back with a touch of dressy and a pinch of sporty. I simply loved the movement in his final garments and the shoes, oh those shoes, someone get me a pair before I throw a fit.
This is the way proper draping should look, beautiful, artistic, flawless and wearable. This is the first time I review DOO.Ri and all I have to say by looking at the stellar collection is that it has been a pleasure. The color palette was mainly black & bone, there were a few hints of pink, a little gray and that gorgeous shade of teal she sent down the runway. The show had an air of fluidity and elegance, everything seemed to fit in the right place and at the right time.
Aside from her jersey draped beauties, we also got to see some different elements this time: silk dresses, wool knits, leather, tailoring skills and laser cutting.
Definitely the show most people expect on NYFW. Yes, it is about the clothes, but it’s also because this man sure does know how to put on a show. This time the setting was a castle in ruins, the main attraction were hats and the accessory that you could spot on every ensemble were pilgrim shoes. The collection, as the designer said, was inspired by fashion icons Anna Piaggi and Lynn Yaeger. It was a texture parade, a big time mash-up, just the way his two muses would have done it.
Everything came oversized or cropped, notice the hips with volume and the flesh peeking out underneath those fabulous coats? It was edgy, it was daring, it was beyond dramatic, it was mad-hatter, it was disco, it was, after all, Marc Jacobs.
LOOK OF THE DAY
Cute schoolgirl does the mash-up, that’s what I like to call today’s look! It’s is pretty but it has an edge. Let’s start with the first layer, a pastel blue sleeveless blouse from TOPSHOP. Second layer: a crocheted lace dress from See by Chloe, it’s flirty and femenine. To contrast with the girly stuff, a menswear sweater in grey with speckles. It’s from Oliver Spencer and you can find it on Mr. Porter. For the last layer, I added more texture and print to the game with this THU THU boucle bomber. For leg coverage, spotted natural tights from Modcloth and navy blue socks from TOPSHOP. For walking distances with style, this See by Chloe lace-up shoes are perfect for the ensemble.
For the bag, a classic in the making, the PS11 by Proenza Schouler in camel. For jewelry, the cute factor with a stripey bow necklace from ASOS and a leather bracelet in beige from Mulberry. Last but not least, pucker up with Dolce & Gabbana’s Scarlett lipstick.
All details from today’s look can be found HERE.
15 down, tons of more reviews to go. Tomorrow LFW kicks off my sweet readers! Which show are you most excited for? Me? Two words: Meadham Kirchhoff.
PS: MFW is 6 days away!
Illustrations: Ana Sofía Alanis
All texts are written by me, PLAGIARISM is not cool…