It’s been a long and fashionable month and I finally get to have some runway rest after this post. Probably you are in need of a break too. We close this season’s Sweet’n'Raw Fashion Week coverage happy with the results and with six of my favorite names from the Paris line-up: Hussein Chalayan, Balenciaga, Giambattista Valli, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and my favorite, Haider Ackermann.
Thank you Hussein for bringing your usual colorful pop to the season. For this show, the designer chose a vivid color palette that included bright red, teal, lime, black, mustard and taupe. He mixed his long and minimal gowns with oversize garments, structured shapes, and cut-outs, lots of them. He did his fair share of color-blocking by putting together beautiful combos such as teal-mustard-white or taupe with holographic panels. As always, his prints were as interesting as his garments and he definitely hit a high note by pairing the looks to equally colored pumps.
Leave it to Balenciaga to make the ultimate PFW statement. This show is among the most coveted of the week, I always silently curse my paisana Salma Hayek, her marriage to Mr. Pinault has snagged her a front row seat next to Anna Wintour. Nicolas Ghésquiere is always one step ahead of all of us mortals, and with this collection, it shows. The designer sent out the runway a display of high-waisted trousers with metallic finish, structured and oversize coats, sheer garments with shiny leather inserts, printed sweatshirts and volume A-line skirts. The collection had an air of sporty to it but also some 80′s vibe. For the accessories (major role at the Balenciaga show), pumps with a strap overload, two-toned ankle booties and gloves, beautiful leather gloves.
Shall we address the fact that the Chanel set is always insultingly beautiful? The Grand Palais always dresses up with its best pieces when it comes to the brand’s show. This time it was all about crystals and it was dazzling. Now about the collection, to be honest, it wasn’t my cup of tea. Miranda Kerr and company strutted the stellar catwalk in oversize garments, pants over dresses or skirts, metallic and sheer textures and colorful tweed. Color palette was jewel toned, so were the eyebrows of every model that walked Karl’s runway. My favorite parts, the side strap pumps and the little boy.
This is my PFW climax, I was expecting this show for ages and it didn’t disappoint me one bit. Over the seasons, ,my love for Haider Ackermann keeps growing and growing. He has developed a signature style that can be recognized from a plane. This show, like his past two,, was delightful. The designer payed special attention to the woman’s waist by cinching almost every look on the runway, his artistic layering skills were at its best and his effortless and precise tailoring was done to perfection. His color palette was all about rusty, Autumnal shades. What killed me? The cobalt blue, cropped jacket number.
YVES SAINT LAURENT
It was the final bow at YSL for the great Stefano Pilati and what a dark & sexy way to say bye, bye. With a runway filled with dark puckered amazons, the designer sent out the runways a bunch of looks in which the waist was the main element. Almost every ensemble from the collection was cinched, enhancing the woman’s natural hour-glass figure. Form structured and leathery outerwear to sheer and delicate sheer, midi dresses, it was beautiful all the way. The accessories went perfectly with the collection´s mood, ruched black boots, wide belts and wait for it… metallic pumps (I’m a sucker for shiny stuff). It was a beautiful end of an era and on to the next question: “Where are you going Stefano?” We already know that Mr. Slimane is taking over Pilati’s position and that makes us very, very happy.
A fabulous Italian in Paris, that’s how I like to think of Giambattista Valli. I’m a sucker for his romance and his beautiful silhouettes. This time his mixed up his signature femininity with some graphic and edgy prints. He pleated skirts with sheer inserts, he added peplums to knitwear, he did the “very popular this season” dress over trousers and for the end, he did a beautiful evening gown display (the long-sleeved, burgundy one took my breath away). It was a versatile collection, but it always stayed true to its creator’s style.
Last FW look and we had to do a little Parisian chic. I chose a green lace dress, that as soon as I saw it at ZARA, I fell for it. I made it jumper style by adding a red, striped button-down underneath, this one is from ASOS. To enhance the waist, a skinny belt in the same shade of green as the dress. This peacock snake one is from Malene Birger. For coverage, a chic tan biker, also from ASOS. For the legs, thigh-high socks in cream and tan booties (I have used them in previous looks) from ASOS, they are now on sale.
For the bag, I love the contrast between navy, green and tan. That’s why I went with Proenza Schouler‘s PS1 Large. For accessories, I kept it simple, a single deer ring from and ASOS beige & tortoiseshell watch. For the nail detail, Tom Ford‘s Scarlett Chinois polish.
For all the deets on today’s ensemble, go to FASHIOLISTA.
We officially close Fashion Month (even tough it ended a week ago) and we are very much looking forward to welcoming the new season, of course, Sweet’n'Raw style.
Wishing you a gorgeous weekend, sweet kisses…