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PFW COVERAGE: C’est fini

It’s been a long and fashionable month and I finally get to have some runway rest after this post. Probably you are in need of a break too. We close this season’s Sweet’n’Raw Fashion Week coverage happy with the results and with six of my favorite names from the Paris line-up: Hussein Chalayan, Balenciaga, Giambattista Valli, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and my favorite, Haider Ackermann.

CHALAYAN

Thank you Hussein for bringing your usual colorful pop to the season. For this show, the designer chose a vivid color palette that included bright red, teal, lime, black, mustard and taupe. He mixed his long and minimal gowns with oversize garments, structured shapes, and cut-outs, lots of them. He did his fair share of color-blocking by putting together beautiful combos such as teal-mustard-white or taupe with holographic panels. As always, his prints were as interesting as his garments and he definitely hit a high note by pairing the looks to equally colored pumps.

BALENCIAGA

Leave it to Balenciaga to make the ultimate PFW statement. This show is among the most coveted of the week, I always silently curse my paisana Salma Hayek, her marriage to Mr. Pinault has snagged her a front row seat next to Anna Wintour. Nicolas Ghésquiere is always one step ahead of all of us mortals, and with this collection, it shows. The designer sent out the runway a display of high-waisted trousers with metallic finish, structured and oversize coats, sheer garments with shiny leather inserts, printed sweatshirts and volume A-line skirts. The collection had an air of sporty to it but also some 80′s vibe. For the accessories (major role at the Balenciaga show), pumps with a strap overload, two-toned ankle booties and gloves, beautiful leather gloves.

CHANEL

Shall we address the fact that the Chanel set is always insultingly beautiful? The Grand Palais always dresses up with its best pieces when it comes to the brand’s show. This time it was all about crystals and it was dazzling. Now about the collection, to be honest, it wasn’t my cup of tea. Miranda Kerr and company strutted the stellar catwalk in oversize garments, pants over dresses or skirts, metallic and sheer textures and colorful tweed. Color palette was jewel toned, so were the eyebrows of every model that walked Karl’s runway. My favorite parts, the side strap pumps and the little boy.

HAIDER ACKERMANN

This is my PFW climax, I was expecting this show for ages and it didn’t disappoint me one bit. Over the seasons, ,my love for Haider Ackermann keeps growing and growing. He has developed a signature style that can be recognized from a plane. This show, like his past two,, was delightful. The designer payed special attention to the woman’s waist by cinching almost every look on the runway, his artistic layering skills were at its best and his effortless and precise tailoring was done to perfection. His color palette was all about rusty, Autumnal shades. What killed me? The cobalt blue, cropped jacket number.

YVES SAINT LAURENT

It was the final bow at YSL for the great Stefano Pilati and what a dark & sexy way to say bye, bye. With a runway filled with dark puckered amazons, the designer sent out the runways a bunch of looks in which the waist was the main element. Almost every ensemble from the collection was cinched, enhancing the woman’s natural hour-glass figure. Form structured and leathery outerwear to sheer and delicate sheer, midi dresses, it was beautiful all the way. The accessories went perfectly with the collection´s mood, ruched black boots, wide belts and wait for it… metallic pumps (I’m a sucker for shiny stuff). It was a beautiful end of an era and on to the next question: “Where are you going Stefano?” We already know that Mr. Slimane is taking over Pilati’s position and that makes us very, very happy.

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

A fabulous Italian in Paris, that’s how I like to think of Giambattista Valli. I’m a sucker for his romance and his beautiful silhouettes. This time his mixed up his signature femininity with some graphic and edgy prints. He pleated skirts with sheer inserts, he added peplums to knitwear, he did the “very popular this season” dress over trousers and for the end, he did a beautiful evening gown display (the long-sleeved, burgundy one took my breath away). It was a versatile collection, but it always stayed true to its creator’s style.

LOOK OF THE DAY

Last FW look and we had to do a little Parisian chic. I chose a green lace dress, that as soon as I saw it at ZARA, I fell for it. I made it jumper style by adding a red, striped button-down underneath, this one is from ASOS. To enhance the waist, a skinny belt in the same shade of green as the dress. This peacock snake one is from Malene Birger. For coverage, a chic tan biker, also from ASOS. For the legs, thigh-high socks in cream and tan booties (I have used them in previous looks) from ASOS, they are now on sale.

For the bag, I love the contrast between navy, green and tan. That’s why I went with Proenza Schouler‘s PS1 Large. For accessories, I kept it simple, a single deer ring from and ASOS beige & tortoiseshell watch. For the nail detail, Tom Ford‘s Scarlett Chinois polish.

For all the deets on today’s ensemble, go to FASHIOLISTA.

We officially close Fashion Month (even tough it ended a week ago) and we are very much looking forward to welcoming the new season, of course, Sweet’n’Raw style.

Wishing you a gorgeous weekend, sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofía Alanis
Photos: style.com

All texts are written by me, PLAGIARISM is not cool…

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PFW Coverage: Haider is dark and Alber goes sharp

Ahoy mate!

Another Monday, another post! And we are still on FW mode (even though it ended a few weeks ago). I promised you yesterday this was gonna be the last one about PFW, but it was impossible for me to narrow down the shows. Tomorrow you will be having my last round-up about this gorgeous S/S 2012. But today I have for you 6 more shows and in this windy and cold weather (I used today my first pair of boots with tights) a fresh and sunny look to remeber the Summer that refused to go away (eventually Fall gave him the boot, sadly). So while we get used to this chilly days, by watching the S/S shows we can only hope and dream of the sunny days that will come (by now you can probably tell I’m a sucker for sunny seasons). So, without further ado, here they are!

HAIDER ACKERMANN S/S 2012

If the formula worked before, why not try it again? That was probably Mr. Ackermann’s motto for the season. And you know what? He was right, not only did it work, it was a hit out of the ball park. His darkness is always overpowering, his execution is supreme and his vision is so unique he always manages to blow us away. He played with textures, he played with patterns and prints that resulted in a beautiful and particular collection. His color palette was as varied as his shapes: black, purple, bordeaux, some beautiful powder neutrals and more.

The tailoring was as sharp as a blade and the natural movement in every garment was to die for. One of the most interesting things was how his usage of leather seemed to blend in perfectly with the silk and other materials, as if they were one, it was effortless, it was flawless. It was a sea of trousers, all the collection with that manly vibe. After this fashion display, ther is no doubt Haider Ackermann is part of the ones to watch, with a bright, bright future ahead of him.

GIVENCHY S/S 2012

It had Riccardo Tisci’s genius written all over, but this time it was not hardcore, it was more on the softer side. With the beautiful Natalia Vodianova as the show opener and the iconic brazilian amazon, Miss Gisele Bundchen as a closer, the italian designer outdid himself, once again. It was a star-studded catwalk, Erin Wasson, Karolina Kurkova, Frankie Rayder, the coveted Zuzanna Bijoch, Saskia de Brawu and the muse herself shining in sequins, Mariacarla Boscono. It was a Ready-to-Wear collection packed with Couture elements and shapes. It was fresh, it was beautiful and it was magnificent.

Everything was nude, cream, black and green, with the exception of those shiny ensembles. It was an almost printless show, something different from what he has been doing the past seasons. But instead of the prints, it was all about the textures and how he played with materials. The woman’s figure was definitely enhanced by each and everyone of the looks we saw on the parisian runway. Tailored shorts, figure hugging skirts and dresses, cropped and tight pants, almost like leggings and beautifully tailored tuxedo jackets were the main components of another stunning show that puts again the name of the french house on the top of the fashion food chain. Thank you Riccardo!

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI S/S 2012

With his collaboration with Macy’s coming soon and the hit that was his Resort collection, all eyes were on the italian designer this season. And we are glad to say he did not disappoint, on the contrary, he had us dreaming the second his first look came out the runway. It was a game of textures, layer and skin. It was sexy but it had a touch of innocence to it. The prints (floral, animal) were the guests of honor and the feathers a perfect complement.

The ruffles were there, the peplum and the brocade were there, the 60′s vibe also, but more importantly, the designer’s signature style was all over the venue. Accessories included heavy arm jewelry and snakesin heels. Be ready to get in line for this man’s Macy’s thing, it’s gonna be crazy!

LANVIN S/S 2012

You won’t argue with me when I say the Lanvin show is one of the most expected on PFW and that Mr. Alber Elbaz is one of the future legends of fashion and one of the most talented designers out there. Season after season he has had everyone drooling after his creations (people almost stabbed each other to snag one of his dresses for H&M), and this year’s tough chick collection was another one of those. It was all so modern but never sober and it was very different from what everyone else presented. He gave us the power woman, the working gal in sharp and tailored garments, pencil skirts,  low-rise trousers with beautiful and simple blouses and shirts, minimalism.

But even though he was doing something different, he never abandoned his usual style. He gave us beautifully draped dresses, sheerness, cut-outs, his signature neck action, the usual embellishments and perfect jewelry dressing. At the end, it was all pure and perfect Alber, when those soft and colored dresses came out on the runway.  I never have anything bad to say about Lanvin, that is because there is never anything bad to say about it.

ISABEL MARANT S/S 2012

She is the cool and hip chick in fashion everyone wants to be friends with. Laid-back, casual and sporty, I always end up saying I want to be Marant girl (God! I hope Zara copies a lot of this collection, my legs need those python print pants). With lightweight knits, rock & roll and a lot of mix and match, the designer presented her collection in Paris with great feedback. Arizona Muse, Anja Rubik, Carmen Kaas and everyone’s favorite ebony girl, the lovely Joan Smalls, embodied to perfection the typical Isabel Marant woman.

Serious leg flashing and figure flaunting was displayed on the runway along with very chic crystal embellisments that we saw on the last looks. That metallic onesie you can se above is among my lust-worthy items. Everything was paired up with chain sandals, very naked and very sexy. Isabel Marant gave us a lesson on how to not be femenine, but always freakin’ sexy.

MIU MIU S/S 2012

And there’s nothing that can stop Queen Miuccia. I must admit that when I saw the first looks from this collection I wasn’t thrilled, when I got to look 5 I was already in love. That’s what I call Signora Prada’s effect. Her collections keep getting better and better, it’s just ridiculous. This time it was time for lace, but lace in a way only the italian designer could do it. The color palette was bold but beautiful to look at: cerulean, burgundy and a sunny yellow. The prints were so unique and the way the italian designer played with them was absolutely stunning.

As usual, her footwear and accessories were major hits! And those shoulder cover-ups with the bows, I went speechless for them. Overall, it was all so pretty, all so polished and cute. But the thing that amazes me the most, is how her Prada collection mood (another huge success for her) had nothing to do with the one for Miu Miu. Miuccia Prada is not only talent and genius, she is one who knows her different crowds and she sure knows what to gives to make us fashionably happy!

LOOK OF THE DAY

Well all this mix and match and print madness made me want to think a little more out of the box than usual. Ahoy mate with the hat, hellooo! For this ensemble (Remeber, it was still sunny back then, now I’m freezing my ass off) I chose a beautiful and sunny dress, perfect to say goodby to what seemed to be an eternal summer. This floral print dress from NASTYGAL has this vintage vibe to it, thanks to the shape and the pleats. It’s cute as a button! To make it a little playful, I paired it up with a striped blazer in white and navy, also from NASTYGAL. The fitting is so perfect that it seems to as if it was painted on one’s body. To keep on twisting, this Marni belt we have used before (click here) to add more shape to the waist and more color contrast. For the shoes, it is all about the tassel! This Luciano Padovan fringed sandals complement the outfit in a very, very postivie way.

For the bag, Proenza Schouler’s PS1 Extra Large suede bag in a fab shade of green! For jewelry, a single bangle, also in green from Stylebop.com. Paint your pucker with a bright pink shade, like Stila’s lip enamel in Pretty pink. Last but most definitely not least, the naughty touch: the skipper hat from Hugo Pratt (it’s for men but, to heel with it! If it looks good, it’s a keeper!).

For all the details on today’s look, you know you have to click here!

That”s it for today folks! Tomorrow’s round-up: Elie Saab, Chanel, LousVuitton and more! You have to check back to get the scoop on those french giants!

Sweet kisses and lots of love!

Photos: style.com
Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis
All texts are written by me. PLAGIARISM is not cool…

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