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PFW SPRING 2014: The Trend Report

pfwtrends

PFW ended three weeks ago and my coverage is still incomplete. With all the illustration and changes I’ve been doing to the blog, I considered leaving the Paris part of the fashion month out. But come on, Paris? With that line-up? The big finale? I just couldn’t ignore it and so here it is, better late than ever, my PFW trend report. This season was a game changer for me when it comes to the French fashion capital, I just wasn’t expecting what we saw. From Marc Jacobs and his final bow at Vuitton and Valentino’s ethnic romance to Balmain’s icing shades, it was all so very different and unique. Here they are, my top trends from the Paris shows.

showgirl

Sequins, feathers and bodysuits! The Paris designers are thinking Vegas showgirl for Spring 2014.

  1. Louis Vuitton
  2. Maison Martin Margiela
  3. Miu Miu
  4. Balmain

air

London was very fond of this very same trend, sheer as sheer can get!

  1. Nina Ricci
  2. Stella McCartney
  3. Valentino
  4. Chalayan

flowers

Think of the flowers in Provence, lively, pretty and lovely. From Miu Miu’s Spring coats to Giambattista Valli’s textured florals, let them bloom!

  1. Elie Saab
  2. Giambattista Valli
  3. Nina Ricci
  4. Miu Miu

shimmy

Not your usual metallics, next season will be all about the shimmer: Golden shimmer, pastel shimmer, bright shimmer

  1. Balmain
  2. Dries Van Noten
  3. Lanvin
  4. Rochas

romance

Ruffles are back and this time with the most romantic touch ever!

  1. Chalayan
  2. Isabel Marant
  3. Balenciaga
  4. Balmain

brush

The designers had an interesting inspiration when it comes to prints: the artistic brush stroke

  1. ACNE Studios
  2. Chanel
  3. Christian Dior
  4. Celine

stripes

The new stripes are not your regular kind of stripes, with leather, with mesh, with sequins and more!

  1. Balenciaga
  2. Christian Dior
  3. Givenchy
  4. Roland Mouret

bombers

Bombers will get the luxe treatment: embroidery, fur, oversize, textured and more!

  1. Balmain
  2. Rochas
  3. Stella McCartney
  4. Vionnet

highwaist

We’ve seen this before but we can’t get enough of it!

  1. Balenciaga
  2. Giambattista Valli
  3. Maiyet
  4. Saint Laurent Paris

meshy

Mesh was amog the most used materials this season. We are loving Marant and Celine

  1. Alexander McQueen
  2. Celine
  3. Isabel Marant
  4. Jay Ahr

sprinkles

A little bit here and a little bit there, garments with sprinkles are a must this Fall and will be a must next Spring.

  1. ACNE Studios
  2. Viktor & Rolf
  3. Chloe
  4. Anthony Vaccarello

bleu

Purple in Milan, Blue in Paris. Bold colors for the next season.

  1. Chloe
  2. Kenzo
  3. Nina Ricci
  4. Stella McCartney

oversize

The oversize garments are very resourceful when it comes to the colder seasons, this Spring, they will be all over!

  1. Carven
  2. Celine
  3. Hermes
  4. Rochas

signature

Lightweight garments with lots of movement? Count me in!

  1. Chloe
  2. Kenzo
  3. Vionnet
  4. Stella McCartney

fringe

Perhaps the most unexpected trend of them all, we just didn’t see that coming in Paris.

  1. Alexander McQueen
  2. Miu Miu
  3. Miu Miu
  4. Valentino

And we are done with the trends now on to our favorite shows! I promise, by the end of this month I will have finished my coverage.

signature

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From Paris…

paris96

It’s the cherry on top pf the Fashion Month cake! After three weeks of countless runways and presentations, you’d think people would be fed up with Fashion Week, but that’s not the case. After a delightful three-course dinner (New York, London and Milan), the thing one wants the most is a sweet and luscious dessert (we’ll worry after the aftermath later). And Paris, my friends, is just that. The perfect ending to what has been a perfect season, packed with trends, styles, colors and talent, lots of it! Tomorrow, Paris kicks-off with its usual and very impressive line-up: Saint Laurent, Dries van Noten, Lanvin, Giambattista Valli, Celine, Chloe and the list goes on and on! Here for you today, the complete Mode a Paris schedule:

schedule

For more details and live streaming alerts, check out http://www.modeaparis.com/en

For all the runway photos and reviews, go to http://www.style.com/

Ready for the last leg of the Spring 2014 race? I am! What PFW shows are you most looking forward to?

Sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis
Image sources: Mode a Paris

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

 

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FALL 2013: Teacher’s Pet

teacher's pet

Fall is right around the corner! And although I am a warm weather person and I will miss my shorts and bikinis, I can’t be more excited to welcome another fabulous season. As I told you before, I’m not really a boots/coat/heavy knits kind of gal, but after witnessing the wonders that were shown last February on the runways, I can’t help but wonder: Is it Fall yet? This is the second post from our A/W 2013 Edit, first came pink (the strongest color trend) now come plaid and with plaid we get to have a style that we were kinda missing and that of course, we don’t need to take too literal: the school girl. Remember the “Baby, one more time” Britney days? Or Gossip Girl’s uniforms with a twist? Well, get ready my friends because this Fall, we will all wanna be the teacher’s pet! Warning: It’s called School Girl trend, that doesn’t mean you have to dress like a Halloween/sexy fantasy character. Remember, a trend is a mere suggestion, you take what you like and you wear it how you like! Ready?

school girl

Let’s start with a fabulous garment selection, from the affordable to the not-so-much, there’s a garment for every budget!

  1. Pussybow blouse, Jason Wu
  2. Fold skirt, Isabel Marant
  3. Double-breasted coat, Zara
  4. Gray sweatshirt, Helmut Lang
  5. Uniform dress, Moschino
  6. Structure shorts, 3.1 Phillip Lim
  7. Two-tone lace-ups, Charlotte olympia
  8. Bowling bag, Nina Ricci
  9. Flat Mary Janes, Zara

school runway

Not sure about this trend? Don’t know how to pull it off without looking like you belong to a costume party? Take a look at the different runway styles!

NYFW: Karen Walker / Marc by Marc Jacobs / Suno / Kate Spade

LFW: Vivienne Westwood Red Label / Mulberry / Emilia Wickstead / Preen

MFW: Moschino / Fausto Pugilisi / Alberta Ferretti / Blugirl

PFW: Celine / Saint Laurent Paris / Chanel / Chloe

And last but not least, a garment and accessory edit with all the stuff you’ll wanna buy if you wanna give your look that teacher’s pet flair!

LRD

  1. Moschino
  2. Topshop
  3. Alexander McQueen
  4. Alexander McQueen

doublebreasted

  1. Zara
  2. Jil Sander
  3. Miu Miu
  4. Zara

flirtyskirts

  1. Alice + Olivia
  2. H&M
  3. Moschino
  4. Isabel Marant
  5. Miu Miu
  6. Zara

buttondown

  1. MIH
  2. Band of Outsiders
  3. Chloe
  4. Miu Miu
  5. Equipement
  6. J.Crew

checked

  1. Paige
  2. Isabel Marant Etoile
  3. Lipsy
  4. Zara

sweats

  1. J.Crew
  2. Helmut Lang
  3. River Island
  4. Band of Outsiders
  5. A.P.C.
  6. Topshop

flats

  1. Zara
  2. Zara
  3. Zara
  4. Zara
  5. Zara
  6. Saint Laurent

satchels

  1. Mulberry Alexa
  2. Saint Laurent Duffle 6
  3. Nina Ricci bowling bag
  4. Saint Laurent Petit Cabas Classique
  5. Proenza Schouler PS1

scholars

  1. Lanvin
  2. Dsquared
  3. Saint Laurent
  4. Charlotte Olympia
  5. Lanvin

schoolgirlchart

Like the trend? I love plaid so I think that I am gonna be wearing this style a lot! Is there any trend or color that you would like me to write about? Drop me a line!

Sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis
Image sources:  My Theresa, Net-a-porter, Polyvore, Farfetch, Zara, Topshop, J.Crew

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

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RAGE IN HEAVEN

There are many differences between artists and designers, this is one of them: When the artist dies, their work and legacy remains intact (it’s not like they are gonna bring someone else to keep on painting Van Gogh’s sunflowers). When the designer dies, he (or she) gets replaced. In other words, the show must go on. Cristóbal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Gianni Versace, Elsa Schiaparelli, Yves Saint Laurent, Coco Chanel, Alexander McQueen and Madeleine Vionnet are all up there, in a stylish heaven and will always be remembered for two main reasons: they were ahead of their time and they changed fashion. They became milestones. They brought so much to the table that their names are still around, along with their spirits.

When a large, luxury conglomerate such as LVMH or PPR (or an individual) takes over a brand with so much history, heritage and personality, changes are made: they want to expand the target, they want to renovate the brand, they want to grow, they want to make it more youthful. It’s fair, it’s understandable, but it’s also necessary, out of respect for the house and the clients, that the codes and the essence don’t get lost in the transition. This Fashion Week, that’s exactly what happened with three of the most important fashion houses. It’s disappointing, it’s unnerving and it’s ridiculous. If we feel that way, I can’t imagine how they are feeling up there.

SARAH BURTON

She learned from the man himself, she was a no-brainer when it came to replacing L’Enfant Terrible, the unique, dark and wonderful genius, the late Alexander McQueen. She has a talent that cannot be doubted or denied, she has construction skills that could put anyone to shame, the details and craftsmanship in her creations are always precise, spot on. You might be wondering, “Why is Sarah Burton on the list?” The reason? She is locked up in a theatrical world, almost repetitive, unwearable and gray. Yes, Alexander McQueen was theatrical, but he also was rebellious, unconventional and had a natural talent when it came to pouring his soul into his collections. Watching one of his runway shows instantly sent chills down our spines. That’s how good his drama was, that’s how powerful his clothes and ideas were. Sarah has potential, a potential that is well kept inside her pale gowns, face masks and collars. Unleash the devil inside you, dear. Make him proud, make us feel something, anything!

goga ashkenazi

Money can get you a brand, but it won’t make you a designer (not even a bad one). That’s a statement no one has ever told Madam Ashkenazi. Not everyone has the business gene, not everyone has the creative one. Apparently “Lady Goga” thinks she has them both. She doesn’t. She is a top notch entrepreneur (she bought her first company at 24), but as a designer, the top and the notch are just not there. Yes, she hired an impressive team to translate her ideas into garments but that’s not enough. Apparently, money lets you buy a dead woman’s brand and shit big bird yellow fur on her legacy. Madame Vionnet was all about architectural shapes, beautiful draping, dresses that seemed as if they were painted on a woman’s body, simplicity, elegance. Madame Vionnet would’ve never said “Why don’t we make a black and white dress, but let’s make it more Wintery by putting some yellow fur somewhere”. Madame Vionnet would never drape with fur, because fur is not made for draping and because the result would’ve been a joke, like your last collection. Lady, this is not arts and crafts 101, this is not “let me show you what I can do with my glue gun”, this is high fashion, this is Vionnet. May I suggest you open a book, study her codes, put that glue gun away and with that big, fat wallet of yours, hire a Creative Director. One that can put Vionnet up there, back with the big ones, where it belongs.

slimane

I thought it was a bad dream, I thought it was all in my mind. It was already hard to digest the fact that creative persona, Hedi Slimane, decided to drop the Yves from YSL. It was kind of disappointing to see his first collection for the brand, a boring and generic homage to the 70’s. But this, this I wasn’t expecting. Some, the less mean, have called it “Smells like teen spirit” style, a Kurt Cobain homage. Me? Not that Hedi cares, I call it the “I stole from the Bershka archives”. He is a rebel, that we know. He is a troubled and genius mind, he has proved that (before). He kicks ass as a photographer (after this collection, he should stick to that as a day job). But this was the legacy of a man that spent years and countless drops of sweat in building his brand, his trademark, his codes, his signatures. You honor men like Yves Saint Laurent, you pay your respects by whipping up a collection he would’ve been proud of.  You don’t shit all over his stuff, you don’t make the man cry up there in heaven, you just don’t. You want to go all grunge on us? YSL is not the right brand for that. You want to actually sell this Taylor Momsen clothes? A leathery dress with sheer panels costs not more than 50 euros at Topshop. Denim mini skirts and plaid shirts? Macy’s has all of that in the junior department. To Hedi, Yves Saint Laurent deserves better, the clientele deserve better. We had just warmed up to the whole Saint Laurent sans Yves thing, this wasn’t the right bomb to drop on us. To PPR, if I were you, I’d sack him, ASAP.

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FASHION WEEK COVERAGE, Feb. 7 – March 6

FASHION WEEK copyIt’s that time of the year again, almost! We are a week away from NYFW’s kick-off and the beginning of the always exciting Fashion month. Right now, NYC is as cold as cold can get (well, not if you compare it with Eastern Europe), here’s hoping that when it’s Milan’s turn, the weather has softened at least a bit. It’s time for the Autumn/Winter collections to hit the runways and while I am more of a Spring girl (I’ve told you that a million times), when it comes to Fashion Week, I’m a sucker for everything! It’s a goal of mine to make the Fashion Month tour, but it’ll have to wait for at least another season to make that happen (here’s hopin’). In the meantime, I will have to settle with covering the whole thing via internet for you. Here are some things you need to know about this FW edition:

  • There will be no Alexander McQueen runway show, due to Sarah Burton’s pregnancy. There will be a small presentation for a chosen few ( 50 editors and journalists).
  • Peter Som also announced that he won’t be presenting his collection in the NYFW runways. He will be presenting, but on another format.
  • Chris Benz is also skipping Fashion Week, he plans to revamp the brand for a new and more contemporary target.
  • Betsey Johnson will be showing on NYFW, so does Kenneth Cole after a seven year absence.
  • Swedish retailer, H&M, will be holding a Paris fashion show for the first time in eight years.
  • Also, Whistles has announced they will be showing at LFW. Seems retailers are following Topshop’s Unique steps.

THE DATES:

  • NYFW: February 7-14
  • LFW: February 15-19
  • MFW: February 20- 26
  • PFW: February 26- March 6

OFFICIAL SITES:

Remember that most of the shows can be watched live on streaming! I will be providing all the links and dates on my FB page. Like it HERE. In the meantime, keep checking back for more coverage on the Fashion Month. It’s gonna be a good one!

Sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

 

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PFW COVERAGE: Tropical Boho

Happy Sunday, my sweet readers! We are just three posts away from wrapping the whole Fashion Week Coverage, it’s taken me a while to achieve that due to some major hiccups (no wi-fi connection qualifies as major drama. I cried, I really cried my eyes out several times). Anyway, even if it’s been a month since PFW came to an end and reviews and pictures have been posted ages ago, I hope you still enjoy my reviews and the spin I put on them. Today I have some major Paris shark. To be honest, almost everyone on the French line-up qualifies as a big shot. Here they are: Nina Ricci’s sensual romance, Chalayan’s fresh avant-garde, Lanvin’s power lady and the woman of every hour, Isabel Marant. Let’s start!

NINA RICCI

Leave it to Peter Copping to sex things up, in the classiest and prettiest way possible. Nina Ricci’s shows are always beyond delightful. It has to do with the romance, with the need of inserting hints of lingerie in almost every look, with the delicate and flowy fabrics, but above all, with the elegant and ladylike vibe the designer injects into his collections. It’s dressy, it’s chic but there’s always that sensual air, the right amount of sexy. For Spring 2013. The color palette can be divided in two groups: Sexy black, dramatic red, deep navy and flirty pink for the first half. A perfect blush and the most beautiful, oyster for the second. Copping’s signature silks ans sheers were cleverly paired up with some elements of bondage (a surprising turn, but one that definitely worked): delicate harnesses and fishnet tops. The bondage trend is buzzing right now and no and part of it thanks to the 50 Shades of Shit phenomenon (as you probably have guessed, I have some major issues with those books and I refuse, really refuse to read them).

Meticulous and beautifully crafted cardigans and knits were paired up with fringed skirts, shiny, gathered ones and even a polka dot sarong (a genius move, if you ask me). Copping presented a different side of the Nina Ricci woman, always keeping her femininity and poise, he toughened and roughed her up a notch and he did it a wonderful job. The last dresses, the ones with the layers that seemed petals, were poetic, the makeup was dramatic, the shoes were barely there (that detail added more sensuality to it all). It was alluring, it was enticing, it was pure, Ricci perfection. Among my top 5 for Spring 2013? Hell yeah!

CHALAYAN

Many collections from Spring 2013 have had a Fall feeling to them. Thank God Husein Chalayan didn’t get that memo (or better yet, ignored it). The avant-garde designer presented a Spring worthy of Spring: soft colors, lively prints, fresh fabrics and Summery accessories. All the looks had two things in common: sharp tailoring and structured shapes. Both elements together may result in a too serious collection but this was definitely not the case. The volume and boxes just added more flair and fun to Chalayan’s line. His signature, color panels and sheer were present, so were some major pleat and ruffle details.The Spring cocoon coat (a garment that Miuccia Prada loves so much) made its way on to the runway and so did the most interesting and colorful peplum (pictured far right). The accessories are worth mentioning:  slink-back booties! What’s not to love?

LANVIN

During his many years as the Creative Director for Lanvin, Alber Elbaz has worked hard on building a strong identity for the brand and the kind of woman he designs for. The Spring 2013 show opened with a series of black and sharply tailored numbers: tuxedo silhouettes, cut-out dresses with racy, thigh high slits and plunging necklines. The tuxedo, a constant trend in the fashion industry, was beautifully deconstructed by Elbaz. After the penguin extravaganza, the designer sent some serious party jumpsuits on the runway and his signature ruched, tight dresses. His creations were heavily embellished with crystals, which paired up with heavy accessories (Lanvin’s forte) resulted in lavish and opulent pieces (over-the-top for the “less is more” folks, but since we come from the country of “more is more”, hello disco jumpsuit).

After the serious tuxedos and the flashy ensembles, the show finale was all about jewel-toned, cocktail dresses. But they were not your usual ruffled, peplum-ed, shape-hugging Lanvin numbers. They were boxy and strangely shaped. Not really my cup of tea, nor my favorite part of the show. Moving on to the accessories, platforms with shimmery ankle straps, bomb-looking purses and a couple of statement necklace, always a must when it comes to Lanvin shows.

ROLAND MOURET

I have a thing for Roland Mouret lately, I just can’t help but be drawn to his collections. For his Spring 2013 show, he took us back to the 80’s. But it wasn’t the 80’s as we know them (Balmain had a more literal approach to this trend), he revisited them but made them his own. Colors were solid and basic and lines and shapes we sharp. Every garment was perfectly constructed: the blazers were on point, the trousers flattering to a woman’s silhouette and the skirts were sexy enough with asymmetrical splits. Folded tops accompanied Mouret’s gorgeous tapered pants and the leather ensemble? The star of the show.

ISABEL MARANT

She is faithful to her chic and nonchalant style. She knows her shapes, hems and silhouettes. Armed with this weapons, she manages to kill it every single time. The French designer has been on top of the PFW pyramid and show, after show, it’s clear why. For Spring 2013, Marant took her Parisian babe to a more tropical but always bohemian setting. The hemlines, as usual, were short enough. The trousers? A perfect fit. The mini shift dresses had prints and embellishment details.

Hawaiian prints with floral embroideries, paisley peplums and flowy tops with laces, bejeweled denim jackets and heavy detailed skirts were among the elements that were showcased on the runway. There were also ruffles, her signature low-rise pants (I won’t die without sporting a pair of her babies, even if I’m an 80 year old gal with a droopy bottom), leather accents and bejeweled pieces. The thing about her, not only does she manage to make everything effortlessly cool, she also makes her clothes fit like a pair of decadent gloves fit the hands.  For accessories, gladiator sandals, bejeweled ones and bangles, lots of them. It’s a boho trip to the beach for Miss Marant and we can’t thank her enough for that.

LOOK OF THE DAY

Fall and Winter don’t have to be all dark and somber. A bright coat is the ultimate staple this season, it can instantly add a fun twist to any ensemble. Why not pair it with pastels and neutrals for an eye-catching result. For accessories, more color and contrast to make it even more interesting.

For all the details on today’s look, go to Fashiolista

Only two more! I swear, we are almost done! Have a lovely Sunday,

 

Sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis
Image sources: style.com, Zara, My Theresa, ysl, Polyvore, River Island

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

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PFW COVERAGE: Raffia Couture

Finally Friday, my sweet readers! Here in Italy, we are having a long, long weekend but a blogger’s duties never stop! Here I am with the first post about PFW and the 13th from our coverage series. We are almost done, I swear. I can’t wait to wrap this up and post more fabulous trends and wintery outfits. In the meantime, Paris is always a good idea! To open up the French reviews, we have an impressive line-up (who am I kidding, all the shows from Paris are nothing but stellar). For you, this Friday, Rochas eternal romance, Balenciaga’s innovative shapes, Dries Van Noten’s beautiful mash-up, Carven’s Parisian swag and last, but not least, Balmain’s raffia couture. Are you ready to rumble?

ROCHAS

Rochas and its ethereal aesthetics have always been among my favorite from the Paris bunch. Not only because of the beautiful prints, but because I’m all about brands with a romantic vibe. For Spring 2012, it was a lavender heaven with touches of French grey, Raspberry and White. The collection had a retro chic feel to it, but there was also something sporty about it. Marco Zanini presented a large range of shapes and cuts: Double-breasted jackets intended as dresses, sheer and flowy maxi-skirts, hot pants + bralet ensembles, hourglass dresses with midi lengths. The polo shirts (biggest trend so far in the neckline department). One of the highlights? He played matchy, matchy and it worked beautifully. As for the accessories, round sunnies, head wraps and white, sock-like shoes.

BALENCIAGA

There’s no doubt that Nicolas Ghesquiere has the x-factor when it comes to innovative skills. Season after season, the designer has always had raving reviews and while Balenciaga’s shapes may not be everyone’s cup of tea, he always manages to get all heads turning his way. For Spring 2013, he may have toned down the sharpness a notch. The shapes were beautiful and architectural, but not as boxy and structured. For the first half of the show, Ghesquiere built some dramatic ruffles into skirts and dresses (hello, gorgeous peplum). Then came the volume skirts with the asymmetrical pleats. Pairing them up with simple, knitted cropped tops was beyond genius. The skin flashing matched beautifully the almost neutral color palette.

For the second part of the show, he entered the “tweed” zone with simple mini skirts and his interpretation of the ladylike jacket. For the tops, he kept it cropped and the hemlines, he kept those short and sexy enough (an unsual thing for Balenciaga). As for the finale, those meticulous, laser-cut, detailed dresses were the cherry on top of that French cake. As for the footwear, always a highlight, low-cut booties in burgundy, cream and black. The front row? Overall, lovely and easier to wear than usual.

DRIES VAN NOTEN

This collection has to be dubbed the queen of all mash-ups. Dries Van Noten really hit the ball ot of the park this Fashion Week. A collection so complex and so visually appealing at the same time: the colors, the shapes, the textures, the tailoring, a lot of fabulous things to take in on one runway show. It was grungy, but it was so damn chic. The plaid tops (in different colors and shapes) blended in to perfection with the floral prints and embellishments. There was a touch of sheer and sexy, some velvet here and there and even some ladylike, retro dresses. The best part of the show? The beautifully crafted, rosette skirts (particularly the one with the pastel shades). As for the shoes, pumps galore: metallic, printed, with laces, with cutouts, you name it!

BALMAIN

When Christophe Decarnin’s departure was announced, everyone grieved. When Olivier Rousteing was appointed Creative Director, some eyebrows were raised. Could the really young apprentice take on such a big responsibility? After this show (and last season’s runway), the answer is abso-effin’-lutely. The designer has done a wonderful job so far, keeping the cool chick vibe Decarnin built but also taking it to a whole new level. Remember the signature, fitted jacket? Olivier has turned it into a boxier and sharper one. The leg-flashing mini dresses? He has made them his own with unique textures (hello, raffia) and beautiful tailoring. He had made clear why a top costs so much, there’s just a lot of work in them, a work of art.

His references were clear: the 80’s all the way. Big shoulders, cropped tops, big, high-waist trousers, black & white stripes and leather skirts. The star of the show? The pale blue, yellow and cream woven number (that’s going to be more photographed than Prada’s striped dress from Spring 2011). The accesories were also detailed and woven, peep-toe booties, statement belts and sharp pumps. Hands down, a stunning collection. If this beautiful man (because he is not only talented, but also gorgeous) keeps doing what he is doing, Balmain will remain on top (where his teacher Christophe left it).

CARVEN

What’s not to love about Guillaume Henry’s Parisian ladies. Season after season, he delivers chic and wearable clothes that we can’t help but drool after. For his Spring 2012 show, he presented a bunch of beautifully tailored and feminine pieces. Almost every ensemble was accompanied by cute and classic collars. Some of the dresses presented chest cutouts, the tops were cropped (mini jumpers never looked so good), skirts were perforated and there was Toilè. Yes, you heard me, Toilè. Pardon my excitement, but as a serial Francophile, this is really my cup of tea. It was another French delight from Carven, thank God for Carven!

LOOK OF THE DAY

Mixing florals and leopard print is always an interesting option. For a French twist, the jumper over a dress with a volume skirt and ankle-strap shoes. For accessories, the golden treatment!

1. Leopard Jacket, DKNY
2. Floral jumper, Dolce & Gabbana
3. Black dress, MAJE
4. Black wedges, ZARA
5. Pelican bag, ALEXANDER WANG
6. Black bangle, KATE SPADE
7. Leopard bangle, J. CREW
8. Ring pack, ASOS
9. Infusion prune nail polish, LANCOME

For all the details on today’s look, go to Fashiolista.

There you go, first five from Paris are up! It’s Friday! Any fun plans for the weekend?

Sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis
Image sources: style.com, Zara, My Theresa, ysl, Polyvore, River Island

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

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Coming soon, really soon…

Twice a year, I give myself what seems to be the impossible task: give you, my lovely readers, the best coverage a one-man team can handle. Yes, I am no style.com and I won’t have the runway shots, detail photos and reviews an hour after the catwalk but I do make pretty decent photo selections, I give killer (at least I like to think about it that way) reviews or funny ones and I put together Fashion Week worthy looks for each post. No, you won’t see me posing in my Giuseppe Zanotti pumps and holding my Givenchy Antigona clutch, with Lincoln Center as background but you’ll definitely find some substance, some fashion substance (hey, at least I won’t be posting random runway shots with “Loved it” as the caption). So if you want to read my humble opinion on the upcoming Spring 2013 shows, if you want a concise and short summary of the London, NY, Paris and Milan catwalks with a funny twist, then Sweet n’Raw will be waiting for you over the next month, with arms wide open and with big-ass posts packed with new fashion and trends. Meanwhile, here’s the recap of Sweet n’Raw’s Fall 2012 coverage.

Sweet n ‘Raw’s Fall 2012 Coverage by the Numbers

NYFW RESULTS

  • 6 POSTS
  • 27 REVIEWS
  • 46 COLLAGES
  • 230 IMAGES
  • 5 LOOKS OF THE DAY

LFW RESULTS

  • 3 POSTS
  • 15 REVIEWS
  • 19 COLLAGES
  • 95 IMAGES
  • 3 LOOKS OF THE DAY

MFW RESULTS

  • 4 POSTS
  • 19 REVIEWS
  • 29 COLLAGES
  • 145 IMAGES
  • 4 LOOKS OF THE DAY

PFW RESULTS

  • 5 POSTS
  • 21 REVIEWS
  • 21 COLLAGES
  • 105 IMAGES
  • 4 LOOKS OF THE DAY

Looks of the day: 16

Accessories used: 101

THE GRAND TOTAL:

  • 18 POSTS
  • 82 REVIEWS
  • 115 COLLAGES
  • 575 IMAGES
  • 16 LOOKS
  • 101 ACCESSORIES

Pretty damn good for a team of one right? Well, expect me to break my record for this upcoming Fashion Week!

FASHION WEEK COUNTDOWN: -06

Sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis
Image sources: STYLE.COM
 

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

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PFW COVERAGE: C’est fini

It’s been a long and fashionable month and I finally get to have some runway rest after this post. Probably you are in need of a break too. We close this season’s Sweet’n’Raw Fashion Week coverage happy with the results and with six of my favorite names from the Paris line-up: Hussein Chalayan, Balenciaga, Giambattista Valli, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and my favorite, Haider Ackermann.

CHALAYAN

Thank you Hussein for bringing your usual colorful pop to the season. For this show, the designer chose a vivid color palette that included bright red, teal, lime, black, mustard and taupe. He mixed his long and minimal gowns with oversize garments, structured shapes, and cut-outs, lots of them. He did his fair share of color-blocking by putting together beautiful combos such as teal-mustard-white or taupe with holographic panels. As always, his prints were as interesting as his garments and he definitely hit a high note by pairing the looks to equally colored pumps.

BALENCIAGA

Leave it to Balenciaga to make the ultimate PFW statement. This show is among the most coveted of the week, I always silently curse my paisana Salma Hayek, her marriage to Mr. Pinault has snagged her a front row seat next to Anna Wintour. Nicolas Ghésquiere is always one step ahead of all of us mortals, and with this collection, it shows. The designer sent out the runway a display of high-waisted trousers with metallic finish, structured and oversize coats, sheer garments with shiny leather inserts, printed sweatshirts and volume A-line skirts. The collection had an air of sporty to it but also some 80’s vibe. For the accessories (major role at the Balenciaga show), pumps with a strap overload, two-toned ankle booties and gloves, beautiful leather gloves.

CHANEL

Shall we address the fact that the Chanel set is always insultingly beautiful? The Grand Palais always dresses up with its best pieces when it comes to the brand’s show. This time it was all about crystals and it was dazzling. Now about the collection, to be honest, it wasn’t my cup of tea. Miranda Kerr and company strutted the stellar catwalk in oversize garments, pants over dresses or skirts, metallic and sheer textures and colorful tweed. Color palette was jewel toned, so were the eyebrows of every model that walked Karl’s runway. My favorite parts, the side strap pumps and the little boy.

HAIDER ACKERMANN

This is my PFW climax, I was expecting this show for ages and it didn’t disappoint me one bit. Over the seasons, ,my love for Haider Ackermann keeps growing and growing. He has developed a signature style that can be recognized from a plane. This show, like his past two,, was delightful. The designer payed special attention to the woman’s waist by cinching almost every look on the runway, his artistic layering skills were at its best and his effortless and precise tailoring was done to perfection. His color palette was all about rusty, Autumnal shades. What killed me? The cobalt blue, cropped jacket number.

YVES SAINT LAURENT

It was the final bow at YSL for the great Stefano Pilati and what a dark & sexy way to say bye, bye. With a runway filled with dark puckered amazons, the designer sent out the runways a bunch of looks in which the waist was the main element. Almost every ensemble from the collection was cinched, enhancing the woman’s natural hour-glass figure. Form structured and leathery outerwear to sheer and delicate sheer, midi dresses, it was beautiful all the way. The accessories went perfectly with the collection´s mood, ruched black boots, wide belts and wait for it… metallic pumps (I’m a sucker for shiny stuff). It was a beautiful end of an era and on to the next question: “Where are you going Stefano?” We already know that Mr. Slimane is taking over Pilati’s position and that makes us very, very happy.

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

A fabulous Italian in Paris, that’s how I like to think of Giambattista Valli. I’m a sucker for his romance and his beautiful silhouettes. This time his mixed up his signature femininity with some graphic and edgy prints. He pleated skirts with sheer inserts, he added peplums to knitwear, he did the “very popular this season” dress over trousers and for the end, he did a beautiful evening gown display (the long-sleeved, burgundy one took my breath away). It was a versatile collection, but it always stayed true to its creator’s style.

LOOK OF THE DAY

Last FW look and we had to do a little Parisian chic. I chose a green lace dress, that as soon as I saw it at ZARA, I fell for it. I made it jumper style by adding a red, striped button-down underneath, this one is from ASOS. To enhance the waist, a skinny belt in the same shade of green as the dress. This peacock snake one is from Malene Birger. For coverage, a chic tan biker, also from ASOS. For the legs, thigh-high socks in cream and tan booties (I have used them in previous looks) from ASOS, they are now on sale.

For the bag, I love the contrast between navy, green and tan. That’s why I went with Proenza Schouler‘s PS1 Large. For accessories, I kept it simple, a single deer ring from and ASOS beige & tortoiseshell watch. For the nail detail, Tom Ford‘s Scarlett Chinois polish.

For all the deets on today’s ensemble, go to FASHIOLISTA.

We officially close Fashion Month (even tough it ended a week ago) and we are very much looking forward to welcoming the new season, of course, Sweet’n’Raw style.

Wishing you a gorgeous weekend, sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofía Alanis
Photos: style.com

All texts are written by me, PLAGIARISM is not cool…

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PFW COVERAGE: All aboard!

Friday is near and so is the end of our Fashion Week coverage (we are just another post away from ending the beautiful madness that has been this fashion month). The Paris line-up is so impressive that also for today, some of the biggest names in the industry: Vuitton, Kenzo, Saab, McQueen and of course, Lovely Lanvin… Ready for your runway review overdose?

LOUIS VUITTON

I think it’s safe to say that Marc Jacobs is really into hats right now. The setting of his runway (he is starting to compete with venue king, Karl Lagerfeld) was a train, made specially for the show. Models strutted the runway accompanied by old school porters that carried their “luggage”. The key elements: volume, oversize coats, ladylike silhouettes, trousers under a-line skirts, embellishments and pantsuits. The color palette was all about camel, beige, navy and green, just to name a few. The patterns and prints had a 1970’s vibe to them and they were paired with platform heels and brogues.

ALEXANDER McQUEEN

Miss Sarah Burton can’t deny that she learned from the best, her constructions, shapes and vibe have the late Alexander McQueen written all over. Last collection was breathtaking, but with this one I can’t help but wonder, has she gone too far? It was a feminine collection where the volumes and the textures had the main role. Color palette was neutral (almost): black, white, ivory, gray, red and pink.  To create those artistic structures, the designer used feathers, fringes, fur, tiers and laser-cut.  Accessories showed the same textures as the ensembles and models sported visors that matched those metallic bow belts on the runway.

KENZO

Just before the Kenzo show, my twitter timeline was completely flooded with comments about the Museum setting, the Magnolia Bakery cupcakes and more. The amount of attention the show got and the stellar collection can only tell us two things: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are doing a kick-ass job and Bernard Arnault can’t be happier. With the colorful venue as background, the designer duo sent out the runway a texture and pattern parade. Colors were so alive, that I can’t believe I’m about to say this, I can’t wait for the Kenzo Fall to arrive. The highlight of the catwalk: the high-waisted, wide, emerald green trousers and the Kenzo embroidered jumpers. Functional but also beautiful, Kenzo was definitely on the top of the PFW pyramid.

LANVIN

Hello lavish! That was the main theme of this season’s runway. Opulent and rich, the show started out with some jewel-toned numbers, then there was navy, red, ivory and black. Silhouettes were built so they would enhance the woman’s body ( hence the amount of cinching). Artistic draping was a key element on Mr. Elbaz’s show, it seemed to be perfectly built on some of the collection’s garments. As always, the jewelry was heavy and remarkable and the gloves, well the gloves gave the whole exhibition that air of sophistication and edge.

ELIE SAAB

Leave it to the “gown” man to make a girl look chic and feminine. Elie Saab never disappoints with his elegant and poised collections, and this one was no exception. He started out the show with sharp and dark daywear. Little by little, as looks and colors passed, the show arrived its climax, his signature, embellished, gowns (very popular among Hollywood A-listers). For his day ensembles, Saab used loose trousers, ladylike skirt suits, beautifully draped tops and some fur. For evening wear, his usual gown display. His color palette ranged from cream, gold and nude, to a beautiful emerald green and black. The most beautiful thing on the catwalk, his use of sequins and his sensual shapes. As his campaign girl, Miss Karlie Kloss was the show opener and the fabulous Anja Rubik the closer. Beautiful!

LOOK OF THE DAY

I’ve always had a thing for feather skirts and PFW is the perfect excuse to take them for a stroll. For this ensemble, I chose a cream, ostrich feather mini from one of my fave designers, Malene Birger. I paired it up with a vintage and lovely Hermes jumper with floral silk print. For the jacket, a boxy, quilted jacket from ASOS. I love how the micro floral print clashes with the one on the sweater. No tights for this one but a pair of killer wedges from Jeffrey Campbell. The crochet finish adds more texture to the outfit.

For the bag, to contrast with the jumper’s leaves and to give a little edge, Alexander McQueen’s khaki box clutch. Since the jacket has a reverse sleeve hem, arm swag is in order! To match the look’s color palette: a tan strap watch from ASOS, a triple bangle set from PIECES, a lip friendship bracelet from NW3, a cream enamel, stud bangle from Ted Baker and a wooden bead bracelet from River Island. For your fingers, a House of Harlow band ring and from Essie‘s new collection, Orange it’s obvious nail polish.

For all the details on today’s look, just click HERE.

Only one to go and we are done! Get your Spring engines ready because after the next post, Sweetn’Raw will be on full Spring mode.

Almost Friday! Sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofía Alanis
Photos: style.com

All texts are written by me, PLAGIARISM is not cool…

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