And just as we were coming to terms with the fact that Summer is about to end, sandals are to be stored and left to dust inside those “open till next season” drawers and tans will begin to fade, here comes NYFW, ruining it all by having us crave the sunny and warm weather even more. I’ve stated this before and I will state it again (even is the Fall 2012 collections really warmed up to me), I’m a S/S girl, always have, always will be. There’s nothing like lightweight fabrics, cheery colors (I’m absence of black girl, remeber?) and skin-flashing coming down a FW catwalk. Spring 2013 has been so far so good, even if we’ve only had three days of shows. NYC never disappoints and below you’ll find proof. Here they are, Sweet n’Raw’s first five Spring 2013 runway reviews and first Fashion Week look. Ready?
JASON WU Spring 2013
Jason Wu’s Spring 2012 show was unforgettable and one of prettiest of NYFW (the thought of his oversize pink peplum still haunts my dreams). For his 2013 runway, Wu went darker, added more drama and sex but managed to keep his lady a lady (a gorgeous lady if you ask me). His inspiration (Helmut Newton and Lilian Bassman images) resulted in a provocative yet dreamy collection.
He paired up elements of romance (sheer fabrics, lace, tulle and embellishments) with bondage ones (leather harnesses, sheer panels with corset seams, leather and lace bralets and studded belts), never going too far and contrasting them perfectly. His prints, now more than ever, have Wu’s signature written all over. As for the color palette, it was all on the dark and the mute side with a few exceptions: some hints of bright coral that made it all even more interesting. Season after season, Mr. Wu has become one of NYFW’s favorites and if he keeps this going….
CREATURES OF THE WIND Spring 2013
Last season, I reviewed with delight Creatures of the Wind Fall 2012 collection, one of the most pleasant surprises on NYFW. This season, I am reviewing it with even more delight. Let’s start with the obvious, a color palette so perky and so visually appealing is always bound to be a success. If you throw some interesting shapes into the mix and a lovely fabric mix, it will just keep getting better. With a 60’s inspiration, the Chicago duo presented an unexpectedly sweet collection. Layering played an important part on the runway (the jacket from the first look is pure poetry). The elements: shorts sleeves, bustiers, pleated midi skirts, perfectly tailored and adorned trousers and the shoes, those Tabitha Simmons shoes with embroidery were definitely one of the highlights of the show.
PRABAL GURUNG Spring 2013
There’s a NYFW trifecta: Alexander Wang, Joseph Altuzarra and my all-time favorite, Mr. Prabal Gurung. The buzz around this designer just keeps growing and growing with each season, making him one of the headliners this Spring 2013. It’s not only about his fabulous prints or his precise tailoring, he surprises with each look but always keeping that continuity a fashion show requires. He has made a signature of those tailored shorts, this time, he paired them up with neoprene sweatshirts and feathered blouses (feathers had an interesting role in his show).
The highlights of the collection were his formal jackets, a genius idea when it comes to twisting and turning evening wear. The shoes, a result from his collaboration with Casadei, made it all more special (mark my words, those red strappy pumps will be everywhere next Spring). Gurung revisited many elements from his previous collections, a good thing when it comes to building a brand’s character, a bad thing when people see it as just more of the same.
RUFFIAN Spring 2013
Twisted, unique and delightful in its own way, that’s how I would describe Ruffian’s Spring 2013 collection. A game of delicate prints, ruffles, layers and soft colors transformed boyish shapes and garments into ultra-feminine ones. To add another touch of spice, Morais and Walk paired every single one of their looks with the classic Converse low-tops (if I wasn’t a fan of sneakers before, I think thanks to them I might be on the verge of purchasing my own). Between the jacquard, the bows, the peplums and the prints, Ruffian will have a lot to offer next season.
HELMUT LANG Spring 2013
And just when we were expecting minimal darkness from the Colovos, boom! They give us this! With a colorful palette, Helmut Lang’s runway seemed almost unrecognizable. Florals, prints, sheer panels and those pants (yeah, those peachy and white drawstrings that looked comfy yet chic) were among the main elements the brand presented for their Spring 2013 collection. If you ask me, an unexpected surprise, but always a pleasant one. With some influences from last season’s collections (Mr. Kane, we are talking to you), the designer duo made it their own. No knock-offs, no copycat stuff, just a hint here and there, an influence.
LOOK OF THE DAY
The fun about Fashion Week is the mixing and matching, the dare, the over-the-top. Fashion Week is not matching your shoes to your purse, that’s why with this look I went for the beautiful chaos that is mismatching.
- Leopard print jumper, ASOS
- Wax-coated jeans, ZARA
- Polka dot courts, KATE SPADE
- Tan handbag, DOLCE GABBANA
- Bangle set, J. CREW
- Spike bracelet, TOPSHOP
- Jaguar bracelet, KENNETH JAY LANE
- Ring duo, TOPSHOP
- Delicatesse nail polish, CHANEL LE VERNIS
For all the details on today’s look go to FASHIOLISTA
Tomorrow I have for you another impressive line-up, what do you think about the Spring 2013 collections? What’s your favorite so far?
Happy Sunday and sweet kisses to y’all!
Illustration: Ana Sofia Alanis
Image sources: style.com, asos, zara, Kate Spade, Dolce Gabbana, Chanel
All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (firstname.lastname@example.org) and images must link back to this site